- The Bird's Gone, but the View Is Insane
- What Is Funausagibanata? The Meaning of "The Cape That Sees Off Boats"
- The "Where's the Bird?" Problem | Why the Sashiba Statue Is Gone
- The View Is Genuinely Top-Class | Sheer Cliffs and the Colour of the Sea
- You Can See Sea Turtles | I Gazed at the Sea and One Was Swimming
- The Triangulation Point Is Dangerous | You Can Reach the Clifftop, but Take Care
- 7 Tips for Enjoying Funausagibanata to the Fullest
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- The Bird Is Gone, but the View Is the Best
The Bird's Gone, but the View Is Insane
The moment I saw the photo in the guidebook, I thought, "I want to go here!"
A giant statue of a sashiba (bird), wings spread towards the sky. There are stairs up its back, and the inside of its belly is an observatory. Incredibly cool. Definitely going.
And so, with my heart swelling with anticipation, I arrived at Funausagibanata.
I parked the car at the car park and headed to the observatory, excited, but —
"…huh?"
The bird isn't there.
All there is is a simple observatory. A white concrete platform. There are stairs, and a roof on top. That's it.
"Wait, the bird? That giant bird, where is it?"
For a moment I thought I'd got the wrong place. But the sign says "Funausagibanata." This is the right place.
I found out later. The sashiba statue was removed in 2019. Due to deterioration from salt damage. In other words, it's gone.
Honestly, I was hugely disappointed. I'd come to see that bird.
But I climbed up the observatory. And what spread before me was a spectacle beyond words.
An emerald-green sea. Sheer cliffs. The Ikema Bridge visible in the distance. The white line of the coral reef.
"Whoa, this is amazing," I thought.
The bird is gone, but the view is alive and well. If anything, hasn't the field of view opened up and become easier to see?
This time I'll write all about Funausagibanata's appeal and the "no bird" problem. So that people who go trusting an old guidebook don't get disappointed.
What Is Funausagibanata? The Meaning of "The Cape That Sees Off Boats"
Funausagibanata is a cape in the north of Irabu Island.
An observatory sits atop sheer cliffs, a place where you can survey the sea. Even among Irabu Island's sights, the beauty of the view is top-class.
The Meaning of the Name
"Funausagibanata" is a curious name, isn't it.
Actually, in the Irabu Island dialect:
- Funa: boat
- Usagi (Ushagi): to see off
- Banata (Panata): clifftop, summit
In other words, it means "the clifftop where boats are seen off."
Long ago, people apparently saw off those setting out for Okinawa's main island or other islands at this cape. Family, friends, soldiers heading to war. A place where they kept waving until the boats were out of sight.
What Kind of Place It Is
It's on the north side of Irabu Island, along the coast.
- Location: northern Irabu Island
- Access: about 15 minutes by car from the Irabu Bridge
- Car park: yes (about 10 cars)
- Toilet: none
- Time to stay: 10–30 minutes
The observatory is right next to the car park. Just climb the stairs and you can see the spectacle. The access is easy.
The "Where's the Bird?" Problem | Why the Sashiba Statue Is Gone
Speak of Funausagibanata and it's the giant sashiba statue.
But that's gone now. It was removed in August 2019.
The Era When the Sashiba Statue Was There
It was built in 1985.
The sashiba is a migratory bird of the hawk family. In autumn, it flies to Irabu Island. A precious bird designated an endangered species.
An observatory modelled on its figure. The figure with its wings spread wide was incredibly cool.
- Stairs up its back
- The inside of its belly an observation space
- A posture as if about to take off into the sky any moment
It was big and prominent enough to be seen from the sea too. A landmark presence of Irabu Island.
Why It Was Removed
Deterioration from salt damage.
Because it's right by the sea, it takes the sea breeze full-on. That continued for over 30 years, and the wing part was on the verge of collapse. It was dangerous, so it was removed.
August 2019. Quite recent.
A Stream of People Disappointed by Trusting Old Information
There are many people who, like me, go expectantly after seeing an old guidebook.
It says "there's a giant bird," so naturally you think it's there. But you arrive and there's nothing.
Look at Twitter and there are loads of people disappointed in the same way.
"I came to see the bird!"
"It's different from the photo!"
"I was looking forward to it…"
I understand the feeling completely.
But the View Remains
Still, please don't end it here.
The bird is gone. But the view hasn't changed. If anything, there are parts that have got better.
When the sashiba statue was there, you saw the view from inside the observatory. The field of view was a little blocked. But now it's a simple observatory, so the field of view is open. You can survey the sea 360 degrees.
"Maybe this is fine in its own way," I thought.
The View Is Genuinely Top-Class | Sheer Cliffs and the Colour of the Sea
Funausagibanata's appeal is the view.
The bird is gone, but the view is alive and well. If anything, of all the views I saw on Irabu Island, this might have been the most beautiful.
The Emerald-Green Sea
Climb up the observatory and what spreads before you is an emerald-green sea.
The colour is clearly divided between shallow and deep places. The shallows, bright emerald. The deep parts, deep blue. At the boundary, you can see the white line of the coral reef.
The gradient is beautiful.
The Force of the Sheer Cliffs
Look down at your feet and there are sheer cliffs.
The height is apparently over 70 metres (230 ft). A vertically rising cliff. Look down and it's a little scary.
But because of that height, the view is wide. You can survey all the way beyond the sea.
The Scenery Visible in the Distance
If the weather's good, you can see far.
- Ikema Bridge: visible small in the distance
- Miyako main island: beyond Ikema Island
- The wind turbines of Nishi-Hennazaki: several white turbines
You can survey all the scenery around Irabu Island.
The Coral Reef Stands Out Clearly
Look at the sea and the coral reef is clearly visible.
A white belt-shaped line. Proof that coral spreads in the shallows. Outside it, it suddenly gets deeper and the colour becomes deep blue.
Around Miyako Island the coral reef is well developed, so you can see scenery like this.
You Can See Sea Turtles | I Gazed at the Sea and One Was Swimming
Another thing that moved me at Funausagibanata.
I saw a sea turtle.
I Was Gazing at the Sea, and Something Was Moving
I sat at the observatory, gazing blankly at the sea.
The wind felt pleasant, the sound of the waves audible. Just gazing at the sea felt good.
And then, about 10 minutes in.
Is something moving in the sea?
At first I thought it was a fish. But the movement was different. Swimming slowly, leisurely.
"Could it be…"
It Was a Sea Turtle
I didn't have binoculars or anything, but I could tell with the naked eye.
The shell is visible. The relaxed way of swimming. That's definitely a sea turtle.
"Whoa, a sea turtle!" a cry came out involuntarily.
I was alone, so I couldn't share it with anyone. But I was incredibly happy.
You Can See One If You're Lucky
When I asked a local, they said, "you can see them sometimes."
Sea turtles often swim around the coral reef. Looking for food. If you're lucky, you can see them from the observatory.
Lucky if you see one. Even if you don't, the view is beautiful, so it's no problem.
The Triangulation Point Is Dangerous | You Can Reach the Clifftop, but Take Care
Funausagibanata has a place called the "Sankakuten" (Triangulation Point).
A different place from the observatory. You can get out onto the clifftop.
What Is the Triangulation Point
It's a little walk from the observatory.
The very edge of the sheer cliff. There's no railing or anything. Lose your footing and you fall all the way down. Genuinely dangerous.
But the view is amazing. The sea is directly below you. The sea looked down on from over 70 metres up. It has force.
If You Go, It's at Your Own Risk
There are places marked "No Entry," but there are also places you can enter.
However, it's entirely at your own risk. There's no railing, so lose your balance a little and you fall. On windy days especially, it's best not to go near at all.
I kept to looking from a distance. Too scary.
For Those Seeking a Thrill
On Instagram and the like, there are people posting photos standing on the clifftop.
Incredibly photogenic photos. But genuinely dangerous. It's best not to copy them.
If you're someone who seeks a thrill you can go, but really take care.
7 Tips for Enjoying Funausagibanata to the Fullest
Here are the tips for enjoying Funausagibanata that I learned from actually going.
1. Go on the Premise That "There's No Bird"
This is the most important.
Don't trust old guidebooks. The sashiba statue is gone. Go understanding that and you won't be disappointed.
Go intending to see the view.
2. Go on a Fine Day
A cloudy day and a fine day are completely different.
On a fine day, the sea colour is beautiful. The emerald green shines. You can survey far.
On a cloudy day, the sea looks greyish. A little disappointing.
Check the weather forecast before going.
3. Morning or Evening Is Recommended
In the daytime, the sunlight is strong.
The observatory has a roof, but there's little shade. Midday in high summer is too hot.
The morning (8–10 am) or evening (4–6 pm) is recommended. The quality of the light is beautiful too.
4. Binoculars Make It Fun
If you're looking for sea turtles, binoculars are handy.
You can see with the naked eye, but with binoculars you can see better. Fish, boats and so on.
It's no problem without them, but if you have them the fun doubles.
5. Make Time to Spend Slowly
It's a waste to just see Funausagibanata quickly and be done.
Sit on the bench, gaze at the sea. Feel the wind. Listen to the sound of the waves. Make time like that and you'll be soothed.
Not 10 minutes — it's fine to stay about 30 minutes.
6. Use the Toilet Beforehand
Funausagibanata has no toilet.
None at the car park either. No convenience store nearby either.
Use the toilet beforehand at a convenience store on Irabu Island, or at another sight (like Makiyama Observatory).
7. Visit Together with Makiyama Observatory
Irabu Island has another famous observatory.
Makiyama Observatory. An observatory shaped like a sashiba. Funausagibanata's sashiba is gone, but Makiyama's sashiba is alive and well.
It's about 10 minutes by car, so visiting them together is recommended.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Will the sashiba statue be brought back?
For now, there's no plan to bring it back.
It's been over 5 years since it was removed, but there's no talk of rebuilding. Budget issues and various things, I think.
Rather than hoping for it to come back, it's better to enjoy the current view.
How long does it take?
About 10–30 minutes.
10 minutes if you just see it quickly. 30 minutes if you spend time slowly.
Looking for sea turtles, taking photos, gazing at the sea. If you have time to spare, it's fine to stay long.
Is there a car park?
Yes. Free.
About 10 cars can park. There are few tourists, so basically it's empty.
Is it OK with children?
The observatory is fine.
There are stairs, but they're not that steep. Even small children can climb them.
However, never let them go near the Triangulation Point (the clifftop). There's no railing, so it's genuinely dangerous.
Can you go on a rainy day?
You can, but I don't recommend it.
In rain, you can't see the view. The sea looks grey. Even if you go, the appeal is halved.
Go on a fine day.
Is there another recommended time?
The evening is especially recommended.
The time before the sun sets (5–6 pm). The sky dyes orange, and the sea shines orange too.
The morning is good too, but the evening is more fantastical.
Which is better, this or Makiyama Observatory?
Both are good.
Makiyama Observatory still has the sashiba statue. It's in a high place, with a wide view.
Funausagibanata has a beautiful sea colour seen from sheer cliffs. Quiet.
If you have time, going to both is best.
The Bird Is Gone, but the View Is the Best
Funausagibanata is a place that has "changed."
For those who knew the era when the sashiba statue was there, it's a little lonely. People who went trusting an old guidebook get disappointed.
But the view hasn't changed.
An emerald-green sea. Sheer cliffs. The Ikema Bridge visible in the distance. The line of the coral reef. The figure of a sea turtle swimming.
With the bird gone, if anything the field of view has opened up. You can now survey the sea 360 degrees. You can think, "maybe this is fine in its own way."
If you visit Irabu Island, Funausagibanata is not to be missed.
The feeling held in the name "the cape that sees off boats." People of the past saw off their loved ones from here. Gaze at the sea while imagining that feeling.
The bird is gone, but the view is alive and well. If anything, of all the views I saw on Irabu Island, this was the most beautiful.
Don't be misled by old information — go and enjoy the Funausagibanata of today.
