- A ¥1,000 Seafood Bowl Eaten While Looking at the Sea
- What Is Obanmai Shokudo? A Fishery-Cooperative-Run Self-Service Diner
- The Appeal of the Popular "Seafood Bowl"
- The Self-Service System
- Counter Seats with a Sea View
- Gyokyou Soba | A Luxurious Dish Using Bonito Belly
- The Facilities Around Obanmai Shokudo
- Crowding and Tips for Visiting
- Sights Around Obanmai Shokudo
- The Pros and Cons of Obanmai Shokudo
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- The Happiness of a ¥1,200 Meal Eaten While Looking at the Sea
A ¥1,000 Seafood Bowl Eaten While Looking at the Sea
The first time I went to Obanmai Shokudo was late morning while driving around Irabu Island. Cross the Irabu Bridge, turn right, proceed about 15 minutes along the road, and Sarahama Fishing Port came into view.
Inside the fishing port there's a facility called "Insha-no-Eki Sarahama." Inside it is Obanmai Shokudo. I parked the car and entered the shop — a casual atmosphere. It seems to be a system where you finish ordering and paying first.
Looking at the menu, I decided on "seafood bowl, ¥1,200." There were various side menus too, like tempura and sea grapes, but first I went with just the seafood bowl.
Holding a call buzzer, I looked for a seat. I sat at a sea-side counter seat. From the window, you can see Sarahama Fishing Port. Boats are moored, and the sea sparkles. "This is really nice," I thought.
After waiting about 10 minutes, the buzzer rang. Going to fetch it at the counter, the seafood bowl was ready. Tuna, bonito, squid, sweet shrimp, flying-fish roe, sea grapes. Colourful sashimi packed densely on top of the rice. Aosa-seaweed miso soup comes with it too.
Eating the seafood bowl while looking at the sea. Fresh. The bonito and tuna are springy. The aosa miso soup is incredibly delicious. The scent of the shore spreads in your mouth.
"This for ¥1,200? Isn't that too cheap?" I thought. In Tokyo, content like this would be over ¥2,000. It must be this price because it's fishery-cooperative-run.
I'll thoroughly introduce Obanmai Shokudo's appeal as someone who's actually visited many times. The deliciousness of the seafood bowl, the counter seats with a sea view, the self-service system. I'll write it all.
If you're planning to go to Irabu Island, you absolutely should drop by Obanmai Shokudo. Eat a fresh seafood bowl while looking at the sea. The greatest luxury.
What Is Obanmai Shokudo? A Fishery-Cooperative-Run Self-Service Diner
Obanmai Shokudo is a self-service diner run directly by the Irabu Fishery Cooperative, located in "Insha-no-Eki Sarahama" within Sarahama Fishing Port. It had its renewal opening in May 2018.
The Origin of the Name "Obanmai"
"Obanmai" means "lavish hospitality" in the Okinawan dialect. True to the name, it's full of volume. Too lavish.
When I first heard it, I thought "Obanmai? What's that?", but after eating I was convinced. It's certainly lavish hospitality. The amount of sashimi is incredibly large.
The feeling put into the shop name. The fishermen's feeling of "let's share the fish we caught with everyone." That comes across.
Renewed from the Former "Ryoushiya"
Obanmai Shokudo was previously named "Ryoushiya" (Fisherman's Shop). When the facility "Insha-no-Eki Sarahama" was built in May 2018, it had its renewal opening.
It was a shop loved by the locals since the old Ryoushiya days. With the renewal the interior got wider and the menu increased. But the basics haven't changed. Offering fresh fish reasonably.
Looking at photos before the renewal, it was apparently a pink building. Now it's a white, bright interior. But the fisherman's-meal atmosphere is just the same.
Opening Hours and Closing Days
Opening hours: 11:00–15:00 (last order 14:30)
Closing days: Tuesdays
▶"Please check the latest opening hours and closing days on [Tabelog: Obanmai Shokudo]"
Lunch-only operation. From the 11:00 opening to 15:00. Since 14:30 is last order, it's better to go by 14:00 at the latest.
The closing day is Tuesday. This is quite easy to forget. I once went on a Tuesday too and went "ah, it's closed." When planning your trip, it's better to avoid Tuesdays.
Location and Access
Address: 1 Maezato, Irabu, Miyakojima City, Okinawa
Phone: 0980-78-3119
Access: cross the Irabu Bridge, turn right, 15 minutes along the road
Once you cross the Irabu Bridge, turn right right away. Proceed about 15 minutes along the road and Sarahama Fishing Port comes into view. Inside the port is a white building called "Insha-no-Eki Sarahama." Inside it is Obanmai Shokudo.
The car park is the port's shared car park. Space for about 20 cars. It's large, so you're fine even when crowded.
The Appeal of the Popular "Seafood Bowl"
Obanmai Shokudo's signature menu is the seafood bowl. A volume-packed bowl using plenty of fresh tuna and bonito.
The Contents of the Seafood Bowl
Price: ¥1,000–1,200 (about US$7–8)
The seafood bowl contains tuna, bonito, big-fin reef squid, maamachi (blueline snapper), salmon, sweet shrimp, flying-fish roe and sea grapes. The toppings can change by the day.
Tuna and bonito are the mains. Fish just landed at Sarahama Fishing Port. So fresh it's springy.
The amount of sashimi is incredibly large. Packed so densely you can't see the rice. This for ¥1,200. Best value possible.
The Aosa Miso Soup Is Superb
The seafood bowl comes with aosa-seaweed miso soup. This is incredibly delicious.
Aosa is a kind of seaweed. Often eaten in Okinawa. The scent of the shore is strong, and put in miso soup, the flavour increases.
The first time I drank aosa miso soup, I thought "what is this? It's so delicious." The crunchy texture of the aosa and the scent of the shore. Eaten as a set with the seafood bowl, it's perfect.
Days You Can Eat Bonito and Days You Can't
Bonito depends on that day's catch. On days bonito is caught, bonito goes into the bonito bowl and seafood bowl. On days it's not caught, it's not in.
I once went wanting to eat bonito and was told "the sea is rough today so they couldn't go out fishing, so there's no bonito." I was a little disappointed, but it can't be helped.
But they don't use frozen bonito. They only serve fresh bonito. That particularity is good. So if you hit a day you can eat bonito, you're lucky.
Island-Octopus Seafood Bowl
Price: around ¥1,200 (about US$8)
There's a new menu item too called the island-octopus seafood bowl. A seafood bowl using fresh island octopus caught on Irabu Island.
The octopus is incredibly springy. Bite into it and there's a springy texture. For octopus lovers, it's irresistible.
The octopus is on it together with other seafood. Not just octopus, but tuna, bonito and more are in it too. A luxurious dish.
The Self-Service System
Obanmai Shokudo is self-service. A system where you finish ordering and paying first, and receive it via a call buzzer.
The Ordering Flow
- Once you enter the shop, go to the order counter
- Look at the menu and order what you want to eat
- Pay on the spot (cash only)
- Receive a call buzzer
- Take a seat and wait
- When the buzzer rings, go to fetch it at the counter
An easy-to-understand system even for first-timers. Go to the order counter and the staff will kindly tell you.
Adding Side Menus
Not just the seafood bowl, you can add side menus too.
Tempura (mozuku, aasa): ¥100 for 2 (about US$0.70)
Sea grapes: ¥150–250
Mimigaa (pig ear) with mayo: a few hundred yen
Island scallion: a few hundred yen
You can add what you like, as much as you like. I often add tempura and sea grapes.
The tempura is mozuku and aasa (aosa). Freshly fried and crispy. "It's freshly fried tempura!" the staff tells you in a loud voice.
The sea grapes have a popping texture. The sauce is separate, and you eat it with a soy-sauce-based sauce poured on.
Drinks Are Self-Service
Warm sanpin tea and water are self-service. Once you take a seat, go fetch them yourself.
Sanpin tea means jasmine tea. In Okinawa it's called sanpin tea. Warm and a soothing taste.
You can drink water freely too. Drink sanpin tea while eating the seafood bowl. The best combination.
Counter Seats with a Sea View
Obanmai Shokudo's greatest appeal is the counter seats with a sea view.
The Harbour View of Sarahama Fishing Port
On the sea side of the interior there are counter seats. From the window you can see Sarahama Fishing Port.
Boats are moored and the sea sparkles. On a fine day the sea shines Miyako blue. A spectacle.
Gaze at the sea while eating the seafood bowl. There's no other lunch this luxurious.
Since They're Popular Seats, Just After Opening Is the Time to Aim For
The counter seats are popular seats. Everyone wants to sit at a seat with a sea view.
So 11:00–11:30 just after opening is the time to aim for. At that time it's still empty. The probability of getting a counter seat is high.
Past noon it gets crowded. Tourists and locals come in numbers. The counter seats are almost full. The table seats may be open, but you can't see the sea.
At first I went around 12:30 too and the counter seats were full. I sat at a table seat. The next time, I went at 11:00 and got a counter seat. After all, a seat with a sea view is far better.
If You're Lucky You Can See the Fish Being Landed
If you're lucky, you can see the fish being landed at the floating pier right in front.
Fishing boats come back and land bonito and tuna. The fishermen put the fish into and out of ice water. Cool.
I once saw the landing too. They put bonito in ice water to keep it fresh. "Ah, that fish becomes today's seafood bowl," I thought.
However, so as not to get in the fishermen's way, watch quietly. Take photos modestly too.
Gyokyou Soba | A Luxurious Dish Using Bonito Belly
Among the menu beyond the seafood bowl, what I recommend is the gyokyou (fishery-cooperative) soba.
The Features of Gyokyou Soba
Gyokyou soba is made with a stock using "Haragaa (haras)," the most luxurious part, from bonito caught by Sarahama's traditional "pole-and-line fishing."
Haragaa means "belly skin" in the Miyako dialect. The belly part of the bonito. It's fatty and the most delicious part.
Since the stock is taken from this Haragaa, the soup is deep and rich. It has an accent a touch different from the light-flavoured Miyako soba.
Braised Tuna and Katsuobushi as Toppings
The toppings are braised tuna (Sarahama-zuke) and katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes).
The braised tuna is seasoned sweet and savoury, and tender. It goes with the soba soup.
The katsuobushi is fluffy. Soaked in the soup, it becomes moist. The scent of the katsuobushi stirs the appetite.
Price
I looked up the price of gyokyou soba but couldn't find it. But Obanmai Shokudo's menu items are all reasonable. I think it's probably around ¥800–1,000 (about US$5–7).
Since the seafood bowl is ¥1,200, the soba should be cheaper than that.
The Facilities Around Obanmai Shokudo
Obanmai Shokudo is inside the facility called "Insha-no-Eki Sarahama." This facility has various things beyond the diner.
The Direct-Sales Shop
Insha-no-Eki has a direct-sales shop. Fish landed at Sarahama Fishing Port is sold as is.
Tuna sashimi can be bought for ¥1,000. Incredibly fresh. People running izakayas and locals often come to buy it.
I once bought tuna sashimi too. I took it back to the hotel and made it an evening snack. Far more delicious than buying at a supermarket.
Original T-Shirts
They also sell original T-shirts that the port people wear. They have the "Insha-no-Eki" logo on them.
They're cool so I wanted to buy one, but when I went only women's and children's sizes in pink and red were left. I wanted a men's large size. A shame.
Next time I go, I'm definitely going to buy one.
Crowding and Tips for Visiting
Obanmai Shokudo is a popular shop, so it can get crowded.
Lunchtime Gets Crowded
12–1 pm is the most crowded time. Tourists and locals come in numbers.
The counter seats are almost full. The table seats may be open, but you can't see the sea.
Go prepared to wait, or go just after opening. One or the other.
Just After the 11:00 Opening Is Best
If you want to sit at a counter seat, just after the 11:00 opening is best.
At that time it's still empty. You can pick any counter seat. You can eat at leisure.
When I went around 11:15 too, there were about 10 customers ahead of me, but I could sit at a counter seat. I was lucky.
Tuesday Is the Closing Day
Tuesday is the closing day. This is easy to forget.
When planning your trip, it's better to avoid Tuesdays. Or plan another shop for Tuesday.
I once went on a Tuesday too and went "ah, it's closed." Since then I always make a point of checking the opening days before going.
Cash Only
Payment is cash only. Credit cards and electronic money can't be used.
You need to have cash ready. There may not be an ATM nearby, so it's better to prepare in advance.
Sights Around Obanmai Shokudo
Obanmai Shokudo is at Sarahama Fishing Port. There are many sights nearby too.
Sabautsugaa (5 Minutes by Car)
Sabautsugaa is a spectacular sea spot in the Sarahama district. The sea seen from the sheer cliffs is incredibly beautiful.
After eating at Obanmai Shokudo, dropping by Sabautsugaa is recommended. The blueness of the sea is exceptional.
Irabu Bridge (15 Minutes by Car)
The Irabu Bridge is a 3,540-metre bridge linking Miyako Island and Irabu Island. As a toll-free bridge, it's the longest in Japan.
On the way to Obanmai Shokudo, enjoy the scenery while crossing the bridge. On the way back too, fully enjoy the view from the bridge.
Sawada-no-Hama (10 Minutes by Car)
Sawada-no-Hama is a beautiful beach chosen among Japan's 100 Best Beaches. Giant rocks lie scattered about, for distinctive scenery.
After eating at Obanmai Shokudo, spend a relaxed time at Sawada-no-Hama. A perfect afternoon.
Toguchi-no-Hama (15 Minutes by Car)
Toguchi-no-Hama is Irabu Island's most famous beach. A spectacular spot where white sand and a clear sea spread out.
Eat at Obanmai Shokudo, and swim at Toguchi-no-Hama. The best way to spend it.
The Pros and Cons of Obanmai Shokudo
Let me sum up the good points and points of concern about Obanmai Shokudo that I felt from actually visiting many times.
Pros
1. The counter seats with a sea view are the best
You can see Sarahama Fishing Port. You can dine while gazing at the sea. This is the biggest appeal.
2. Fishery-cooperative-run with outstanding freshness
Fish just landed at the port right in front. Too fresh.
3. The seafood bowl is best value at ¥1,200
This volume, this price. At other tourist spots it'd be content costing over ¥2,000.
4. The aosa miso soup is superb
The scent of the shore is irresistible. Eaten as a set with the seafood bowl, it's perfect.
5. Plentiful side menus
Tempura, sea grapes, mimigaa, island scallion. You can add what you like.
6. Self-service is easygoing
Order, receive, eat. You don't have to be on edge.
7. The interior is wide with many seats
Even when crowded, you can sit somewhere. The waiting time isn't that long.
Cons
1. The counter seats are a scramble
Since they're popular seats, you can't sit unless it's just after opening. Past noon they're almost full.
2. There are days you can't eat bonito
It depends on the catch. On days bonito isn't caught, bonito isn't in the bonito bowl or seafood bowl.
3. Tuesday is the closing day
If your trip dates overlap with Tuesday, you can't go.
4. Cash only
Credit cards and electronic money can't be used. You need to have cash ready.
5. The location is a little hard to find
It takes 15 minutes from the Irabu Bridge to Sarahama Fishing Port. First-timers may get lost.
6. Lunch-only operation
It's not open at night. You can only eat lunch.
7. People not used to self-service are puzzled
Ordering, paying, receiving — you do it all yourself. First-timers may be a little puzzled. But you get used to it right away.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Where is Obanmai Shokudo?
1 Maezato, Irabu, Miyakojima City, Okinawa. Inside "Insha-no-Eki Sarahama" within Sarahama Fishing Port. Cross the Irabu Bridge, turn right, 15 minutes along the road.
Q2: What are the opening hours?
11:00–15:00 (last order 14:30). Closing day is Tuesday.
Q3: Are reservations needed?
Basically, no reservation needed. Since it's self-service, you can sit if a seat is open. However, if you want a counter seat, just after the 11:00 opening is recommended.
Q4: What's the price of the seafood bowl?
¥1,000–1,200. The toppings change by the day.
Q5: Can you eat bonito every day?
It depends on that day's catch. On days bonito is caught you can eat it. On days it's not caught, you can't. They don't use frozen bonito.
Q6: What are the payment methods?
Cash only. Credit cards and electronic money can't be used.
Q7: Is there a car park?
Yes. The shared car park of Sarahama Fishing Port. Space for about 20 cars.
Q8: I want to sit at a counter seat?
Going 11:00–11:30 just after opening is best. Past noon they're almost full.
Q9: What side menus are there?
Tempura (mozuku, aasa) ¥100 for 2, sea grapes ¥150–250, mimigaa with mayo, island scallion and more.
The Happiness of a ¥1,200 Meal Eaten While Looking at the Sea
Obanmai Shokudo is a shop you absolutely should drop by if you go to Irabu Island. Eat a fresh seafood bowl while looking at the sea. There's no other place where you get this much satisfaction for ¥1,200.
The first time I sat at a counter seat, I was moved by Sarahama Fishing Port visible from the window. Boats are moored and the sea sparkles. The Miyako-blue sea. A spectacle.
Gaze at the sea while eating the seafood bowl. The tuna and bonito are springy and fresh. The aosa miso soup is delicious with plenty of the shore's scent.
"This for ¥1,200?" I don't know how many times I thought that. In Tokyo it'd be content over ¥2,000. It's this price because it's fishery-cooperative-run.
Self-service is easygoing and good too. Order, receive, eat. You don't have to be on edge with the staff. You can eat at your own pace.
I tried various side menus too. The tempura is freshly fried and crispy. The sea grapes have a popping texture. The mimigaa with mayo is also perfect as a snack with drinks.
I've also seen the fish being landed from a counter seat. The fishermen put bonito in ice water. "That fish becomes today's seafood bowl," I thought.
Irabu Island has a beautiful sea, white sand and a beautiful sunset. But Obanmai Shokudo's seafood bowl becomes a memory just as important.
During the trip, eat a seafood bowl at Obanmai Shokudo. Taste fresh fish while gazing at the sea. And think "I want to come again."
If you're planning to go to Irabu Island, do drop by Obanmai Shokudo. Go just after the 11:00 opening and the probability of getting a counter seat is high. I want you to eat a seafood bowl while looking at the sea.
When I next go to Irabu Island, I'll go to Obanmai Shokudo again too. This time I want to try the gyokyou soba too. The stock using bonito belly — what kind of taste is it? I'm looking forward to it.
Obanmai Shokudo is such a place. It never gets old no matter how many times you go. The counter seats with a sea view make you feel happy no matter how many times you sit there.
Irabu Island's blue sea, white sand, beautiful sunset. And Obanmai Shokudo's seafood bowl. With all of these in place, it becomes the best trip. I want you, too, to experience such a trip.
