- The Day I Became a Car-Park Refugee at 17END in the Early Afternoon
- Irabu Island's Sights Actually Get Crowded
- The Reason the Morning (9–10 o'clock) Is Empty
- The Reality That Tour Buses Come from the Early Afternoon
- Differences in Crowded Times by Sight
- For Photos, Definitely the Morning
- 7 Tips for Avoiding Crowds
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- Summary | The Early Bird Catches the Worm
The Day I Became a Car-Park Refugee at 17END in the Early Afternoon
When I arrived at 17END just past 1 pm, the car park was full. Cars were lined up all along the road too.
The summer of my second year after moving to Miyako Island. My friend said "I want to go to 17END!", so on a light whim we headed there after lunch. Fine weather too. Low-tide time already checked. I thought it was perfect.
But I couldn't get into the car park. The car park, which holds about 20 cars, was already packed with rental cars and tour buses. With no choice I tried to park on the road, but cars were already lined up from about 500 metres back.
In the end, I waited about 30 minutes and finally parked. During that time, two whole tour buses came. I could hear a tour guide saying "you have 30 minutes free time here."
5 minutes on foot from the car park to 17END. Under the blazing midsummer sun. Arriving drenched in sweat, the beach was full of people. Try to take a photo and whichever way you shoot, someone gets in the frame.
"I should have come earlier."
I genuinely thought that then.
Irabu Island tends to be thought of as "empty because it's a remote island." But actually, depending on the time, it gets quite crowded. Popular spots like 17END and Toguchi-no-Hama especially get crowded from the early afternoon.
In this article I'll write, based on real experience, about the times to avoid crowds on Irabu Island and the reason the morning is the time to aim for. Just getting up early and moving in the morning makes the stress totally different.
Irabu Island's Sights Actually Get Crowded
"Irabu Island's a remote island, so there are few people, right?"
I get asked this a lot. But it's wrong.
Irabu Island gets normally crowded. In the tourist season especially (July–September, Golden Week, the New Year period), the main sights are full of people everywhere.
Since the Irabu Bridge opened in 2015, tourists have surged. Until then you could only go by ferry, so tourists were limited too. But now, it's 15 minutes by rental car from Miyako Island. You can go casually.
What's especially crowded is 17END. One of the foremost spectacular spots in Miyakojima. A phantom beach that appears only at low tide. Spread all over social media, it's now a classic of Miyakojima sightseeing.
The car park has only 20 spaces. At peak times, it fills up right away. Cars parked on the road sometimes form a line as far as the Toriike Pond car park before it.
Toguchi-no-Hama gets crowded too. Irabu Island's most beautiful beach. White sand continuing 800 metres. It has a car park too, but it fills up easily from the early afternoon.
Makiyama Observatory is relatively better off because the car park is large. But when tour buses come, the people increase all at once. Try to take a photo from the observatory and it gets hard with the crowds.
Sawada-no-Hama is a sunset spot, so the evening gets crowded. Around 4–6 pm the car park is full too.
Toriike Pond has a large car park, but when group tours come it gets crowded. The path is one-way too, so with many people it congests.
The image of "remote island = empty" — you'd best throw it away. Popular spots can, depending on the time, be more crowded than the beaches of Miyako's main island.
However, it's not that everything gets crowded. Choose the time and place, and you can enjoy an Irabu Island with few people.
The Reason the Morning (9–10 o'clock) Is Empty
The morning, especially the 9–10 o'clock range, is recommended. This time is surprisingly empty.
The reason is simple. Everyone hasn't moved yet.
Many people who come on a Miyakojima trip get up slowly in the morning. Eat breakfast at the hotel, get ready, and set out around 10–11 am. So the sights start to get crowded from 11 am onwards.
17END especially is genuinely empty if you go in the 9 o'clock range. The car park is empty too. There's no one on the beach. Take as many photos as you like.
When I go to 17END now, I always go first thing. The 8–9 o'clock range. At this time, you don't wait in the car park, and the beach is like having it to yourself.
Toguchi-no-Hama is the same. The morning has few people. Especially going before 9 am, it's almost yours alone. You can have the white sand all to yourself.
At Makiyama Observatory too, in the morning the tour buses haven't come yet. You can survey the Irabu Bridge from the observatory. The wind is pleasant too.
The good thing about the morning is the temperature is still mild. Even in high summer, the 9–10 o'clock range isn't that hot. The sun is strong, but not as much as the early afternoon. It's also less likely to be backlit for photos.
And the sea colour looks beautiful. At the morning sun's angle, the sea shines emerald green. The clarity is clearly visible too.
However, too early is also a no.
Go before 8 am and it may not match the plane take-off/landing time (if you want to see planes at 17END), or be out of sync with the low-tide time. And in the still-dark hours, photos don't come out well either.
The 9–10 o'clock range is just right.
Go round Irabu Island's main spots in the morning, and eat lunch on Irabu Island. In the afternoon, return to Miyako's main island or relax at the hotel. This is my standard pattern.
You might think "getting up early is a hassle." But just getting up early and moving in the morning makes the quality of the trip totally different. You can avoid crowds, and take beautiful photos. Above all, there's no stress.
The early bird catches the worm. This is genuinely true.
The Reality That Tour Buses Come from the Early Afternoon
Past 11 am, the sights start to get crowded all at once. And the early afternoon, around 12–2 pm, is the peak of the crowds.
The reason is tour buses.
Miyako Island tour companies often have a pattern of going round the sights on Miyako's main island in the morning, then coming to Irabu Island after lunch. So tour buses concentrate in the early afternoon.
At 17END, 3–4 tour buses can come between 12 and 2 pm. With 30–40 people per bus, over 100 people increase at once. The car park is at bursting point.
Toguchi-no-Hama is the same. Tour buses come from the early afternoon. Group guests file off, and the beach gets lively all at once.
Makiyama Observatory is on the standard tour-bus route. In the early afternoon, the observatory is full of group guests. Taking photos is a struggle too.
It's not just tour buses. Individual rental cars also increase from the early afternoon.
People staying on Miyako Island relax at the hotel in the morning, check out at 10–11 am. Then head to Irabu Island. They arrive late morning to early afternoon. So 11 am–2 pm gets crowded.
When I became a car-park refugee, it was exactly this time. Just past 1 pm. The car park full of tour buses and rental cars. Cars lined up on the road too.
Tour buses generally move on in 30 minutes to an hour. So past 2 pm it gradually empties. But at peak time, just waiting for a car-park space takes 20–30 minutes.
Many people try to go to Irabu Island after lunch. But that means going at the most crowded time.
Conversely, avoid the early afternoon and you can dodge the crowds.
Go in the morning, or go after 3 pm. Just shifting to one or the other makes it totally different.
Differences in Crowded Times by Sight
Irabu Island's sights each have different crowded times. Let me explain spot by spot.
17END
Peak of crowds: 11 am–2 pm
17END has people concentrate to match the low-tide time. If low tide is around midday, 11 am–2 pm is the peak of crowds. Tour buses come, and there are many individual rental cars too.
The car park has only 20 spaces. When full, you have no choice but to park on the road. A line of cars can form from about 500 metres back.
Recommended times: 8–10 am, after 3 pm
Early in the morning is the emptiest. In the 8–10 o'clock range, there's room in the car park. The beach has few people too.
After 3 pm it empties too. However, if it's out of sync with the low-tide time, you can't see the phantom beach, so take care.
Toguchi-no-Hama
Peak of crowds: 12–3 pm
Toguchi-no-Hama gets crowded from the early afternoon. Being on the tour-bus route, 12–3 pm is especially crowded. The car park is full too. The beach has many people too.
Recommended times: 9–11 am, after 4 pm
The morning is relatively empty. From 9–11 am you can spend time at leisure.
The evening is the time to aim for too. Past 4 pm the tour buses pull out and it gradually empties. To see the sunset, 5–6 pm is best.
Makiyama Observatory
Peak of crowds: 12–2 pm
Makiyama Observatory gets crowded in the early afternoon too. Since it's a place tour buses always stop at, it fills up with group guests. The observatory and the path are full of people.
Recommended times: 9–11 am, after 3 pm
In the morning the tour buses haven't come yet. You can gaze at the Irabu Bridge from the observatory at leisure.
After 3 pm it empties too. The evening scenery is beautiful too, so if you have time, 4–5 pm is also recommended.
Sawada-no-Hama
Peak of crowds: 5–6:30 pm
Sawada-no-Hama is a sunset spot. The evening gets crowded. Especially 5–6:30 pm is full of people coming to see the sunset. The car park is almost full too.
Recommended times: 9 am–3 pm
The daytime is relatively empty. You can't see the sunset, but for spending time at leisure, the morning to afternoon is good.
Toriike Pond
Peak of crowds: 11 am–2 pm
Toriike Pond gets crowded around midday too. The car park is large so it's not as bad as 17END, but when tour buses come the people increase all at once. The path is one-way, so with many people it congests.
Recommended times: 9–10 am, after 3 pm
Early in the morning is empty. You can walk the path smoothly too.
Basically, every sight is empty in the morning (9–10 o'clock) and after 3 pm. The early afternoon (12–2 pm) is the most crowded.
For Photos, Definitely the Morning
If you're taking photos, you should go in the morning. Three reasons.
1. Few People, So No One Gets in Your Photos
The early afternoon has many people, and whichever way you shoot, someone gets in the frame. 17END and Toguchi-no-Hama especially are full of people. It's hard to take a photo of just yourself.
In the morning, there are few people. The beach and the observatory are almost like having them to yourself. Shoot as much as you like.
2. The Sea Colour Looks Beautiful
At the morning sun's angle, the sea shines emerald green. The clarity is clearly visible too.
In the early afternoon the sun is right overhead, so the sea colour can look whitish. It's also easily backlit. The finished photo is totally different.
3. The Temperature Is Still Mild
The early afternoon in high summer is genuinely hot. It normally exceeds 33°C (91°F). You lose the spare capacity to take photos. You get drenched in sweat.
In the morning, the temperature is still around 30°C (86°F). You can concentrate on photography too.
17END especially has 9–11 am as the golden time for photography.
If the low-tide time is in the morning, it's all the more best. The phantom beach appears, there are few people, and the sea colour is beautiful. Perfect.
If you want to take photos to upload to Instagram or social media, you should definitely go in the morning. Go in the early afternoon and take photos full of people, and they won't look good.
I too went at first without caring about the time. But since I started going in the morning, the quality of my photos is totally different. The reaction from followers changed too.
"How do you take such beautiful photos?" I get asked often, but the answer is simple. Just go in the morning.
7 Tips for Avoiding Crowds
Let me introduce 7 tips for avoiding crowds and sightseeing comfortably on Irabu Island.
1. Leave the Hotel at 8–9 am
Get up early and leave the hotel at 8–9 am. It's 15 minutes by car from Miyako Island to Irabu Island. You arrive before 9 am.
Buy breakfast at a convenience store, or eat the hotel breakfast at an early time.
2. Go Round the Main Spots in the Morning
Between 9 am and noon, go round 17END, Toguchi-no-Hama and Makiyama Observatory. 30 minutes to an hour per spot. You can go round 3 places in the morning.
Eat lunch on Irabu Island, or after returning to Miyako Island.
3. Check the Low-Tide Time
If going to 17END, always check the low-tide time. You can look up the tide level for "Hirara" on the Japan Meteorological Agency site.
If the low-tide time is in the morning, it's all the more best. You can see the phantom beach, and there are few people.
4. Aim for Weekdays
If possible, go on a weekday. Weekends and holidays have many tourists. Golden Week and the summer holidays especially are crowded even on weekdays.
On a weekday morning, you can enjoy it almost like having it to yourself.
5. Aim for the Off-Season
May, June, October and November are the off-season. There are few tourists. The weather is stable too (June is the rainy season, though).
In the off-season, it's relatively empty even without minding the time.
6. Aim for Hidden Spots
If you want to avoid 17END's crowds, go to 35END beach. A hidden spot on the opposite side of 17END. The clarity is slightly inferior to 17END, but there are few people.
If you want to avoid Toguchi-no-Hama's crowds, go to Sawada-no-Hama (except the evening). The daytime is relatively empty.
7. Return to Miyako's Main Island in the Afternoon
Go round Irabu Island in the morning, and return to Miyako's main island in the afternoon. Relax at a beach on Miyako's main island (like Yonaha Maehama).
Irabu Island can be fully gone round in the morning. There's no need to force staying on Irabu Island in the afternoon too.
Keep these 7 and you can avoid crowds. You can enjoy Irabu Island stress-free.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1. From what time to what time can you enter 17END?
You can enter 24 hours. There's no time limit. But at night it's pitch dark and you can't see anything. Early morning (before sunrise) is dark too. Going in the daytime (around 8 am–6 pm) is realistic.
Q2. What should you do when the car park is full?
Park on the road, or park at the Toriike Pond car park and walk. From the 17END car park to the Toriike Pond car park is about 15 minutes on foot. In midsummer it's quite tough, but it can be better than waiting for a car-park space.
Q3. Can you know the tour-bus times in advance?
You can't. The route differs by tour company, and the time changes by day. However, they generally concentrate at 12–2 pm, so avoid this time and you're fine.
Q4. Is it empty on rainy days?
It's empty. Tourists decrease, so there's room in the car park too. However, on rainy days the sea colour doesn't look good. Photos don't come out well either. Still, if you go, it's certainly empty.
Q5. How empty is it after 3 pm?
Not as much as the morning, but emptier than the early afternoon. Past 3 pm the tour buses start to pull out. 4–5 pm is the time to aim for in the afternoon. However, at 17END, if it's out of sync with the low-tide time you can't see the phantom beach. It's best to check the low-tide time in advance.
Q6. How about winter (December–February)?
Winter is the off-season. There are quite few tourists. It's relatively empty even without minding the time. However, it's cold for swimming. Photography and enjoying the scenery are the main thing.
Q7. When is the most crowded period?
Golden Week, the summer holidays (July–August), the New Year period. In these periods it's crowded even on weekdays. 17END especially has the car park constantly full. There are many people even in the morning.
Summary | The Early Bird Catches the Worm
To avoid crowds on Irabu Island, you should go in the morning (9–10 o'clock). The early afternoon (12–2 pm) is crowded with tour buses and rental cars. The car park is full too. Photos are full of people. Nothing but stress. But in the morning, there are few people. The car park is empty too. The beach and observatory are almost like having them to yourself. Take as many photos as you like. The sea colour looks beautiful too.
The feeling of "getting up early is a hassle" — I understand it. At least while travelling, you want to sleep in.
But just getting up early and moving in the morning makes the quality of the trip totally different. You can avoid crowds, and take beautiful photos. Above all, there's no stress.
I too at first didn't mind the time. I went to Irabu Island after lunch, became a car-park refugee, could only take photos full of people, and thought "this is a bit much."
But since I started going in the morning, my impression of Irabu Island changed. Quiet, beautiful, soothing. I really felt "this is the real Irabu Island."
Irabu Island shows totally different faces depending on the time.
I don't want you to see the crowded early-afternoon Irabu Island and think "is this all it is." I want you to see the quiet morning Irabu Island. I want you to feel that beauty.
The early bird catches the worm. This is the same for travel too.
Get up early, and move in the morning. Just that, and you'll meet the best Irabu Island.
