- The Appeal of a 5-Room Private Resort on Irabu Island and Its Rooftop Jacuzzi
- There's a Special Feel Precisely Because It's a Hotel of Just 5 Rooms
- I Had to Postpone Many Times Because I Couldn't Get a Booking
- The Moment I Entered the side.A Room, I Was Overwhelmed by the Beauty of the Sea
- The Starry Sky I Saw from the Rooftop Jacuzzi Was the Most Beautiful in My Life
- The Cafe Lunch Is More Delicious Than Imagined and Moves Me
- At First I'm Bewildered to Hear There Are No Disposable Amenities
- Knowing the Owner's Wishes, I Empathise
- side.B Overwhelms Me Just from a Viewing
- The Guests-Only Breakfast Is the Best
- Nearby Sightseeing Spots and Access
- Amid Irabu Island's Construction Rush, I Want Soraniwa to Stay Unchanged
- Honestly Writing Who Soraniwa Suits and Doesn't Suit
- Frequently Asked Questions and Answers
- A Special Place Where It Makes Sense You Can't Get a Booking
The Appeal of a 5-Room Private Resort on Irabu Island and Its Rooftop Jacuzzi
On the booking site, "no vacancy" kept showing for 3 months ahead, and I was surprised it was this popular.
I'd heard from a friend "you can't get Soraniwa unless you book early," but honestly I hadn't thought about it that seriously. In the end I waited 4 months to finally get a booking, and I realised booking a popular hotel is this much trouble.
It's a small hotel of just 5 rooms standing on the south side of Irabu Island, and apparently it's stayed popular ever since opening in 2010. Hearing that vacancies are hard to come by because there are many repeat guests, I'm convinced.
Actually staying, I felt it's only natural you can't get a booking. With only 5 rooms it's quiet and you're disturbed by no one, you wake in the morning to birdsong, you hear the waves, and the sea seen from the veranda is too beautiful, so you seriously feel you want to stay here forever.
In this article, based on my actual experience of staying, I'll answer the question "what's so amazing about Soraniwa?" I'd be glad if it helps people looking for a hotel on Irabu Island.
There's a Special Feel Precisely Because It's a Hotel of Just 5 Rooms
When I first heard "there are only 5 rooms in all," I honestly wondered whether that's a scale you can even call a hotel.
But actually staying, I understood there's a goodness precisely because it's 5 rooms. There's a special feel you can absolutely never taste at a large resort hotel.
The composition is side.A with 3 rooms on the second floor of the same building as the cafe, and side.B as a separate building with 2 rooms — just 5 rooms total, and that fewness creates an unbelievably quiet, calm atmosphere.
You can't hear the next room's sounds, and you hardly ever bump into other guests in the lobby. The sense of privacy is insane.
At check-in I was told "there are only 2 other groups staying today," and I thought, isn't that an incredibly luxurious environment? There's none of the annoyance of a large resort hotel with crowds of people, a congested breakfast venue and waiting for the lift. Being able to spend time slowly just for ourselves is the best.
▶Check the details on the official site
I Had to Postpone Many Times Because I Couldn't Get a Booking
The first time I tried to book was half a year before, but it wasn't open at all and I gave up. Thinking, it's too popular.
The second time I looked 3 months before, but it was booked up after all. I got a bit irritated, thinking, when will I ever get to stay?
The third time I finally got a booking for 4 months later, and I was happy — yes! At last! — but the wait was too long, and I got anxious several times about whether the day I'd actually stay would really come.
But actually staying, I felt from the heart it was worth the wait. I decided that next time I'd book earlier, half a year before.
The reason for the popularity is partly the physical constraint of only 5 rooms, but apparently the many repeat guests are a big cause too. I often saw reviews saying once you stay you want to stay again, and it's truly so.
I'm even wondering when to come next, whether summer or winter is better, so I think it's unavoidable that bookings are hard to get.
The Moment I Entered the side.A Room, I Was Overwhelmed by the Beauty of the Sea
side.A is 3 rooms on the second floor of the same building as the cafe, with a luxurious build of all ocean-view rooms with balconies.
The moment I opened the room door and entered, "wow, the sea's so beautiful" slipped out of me. The windows are large, and the sea seen from the veranda is blue. I realise, so this is Miyako blue.
With solid antique-style flooring and Ryukyu-plaster walls, it's a warm space. I feel it's simple but comfortable. Not too modern, not too old, calming with just the right balance.
The bed is by Serta with good sleeping comfort, and I slept soundly until morning. It's comfortable enough that I thought I want this bed.
The bathroom is just a shower booth with no bathtub, but since you can use the rooftop jacuzzi it's no problem at all. Rather, I like shower-only better as it's cleaner.
The rooms come in twin, double and triple, and I stayed in a twin room, with sufficient size to spend it relaxedly as 2 people.
There's no flashiness like a luxury resort, but everything you need is there. And above all you can see the sea. This is the best. I think anew how important the view from the window is.
The Starry Sky I Saw from the Rooftop Jacuzzi Was the Most Beautiful in My Life
side.A guests can use the rooftop jacuzzi privately for 1 hour. It's by reservation, usable for 1 hour between 16:00 and 22:00, with a rule of wearing a swimsuit.
I book from 21:00. I wanted to see the stars, so I thought night was definitely best.
When I actually went up to the rooftop it was pitch dark, and I couldn't tell the boundary between sea and sky. I turn on the jacuzzi switch, and the moment I soak in the water, "this feels good" slips out.
The moment I looked up, I caught my breath.
The stars are amazing.
The Milky Way is clearly visible, and a shooting star crosses. Ah, it shot, and then another one shot, and another. I forget even to count and become absorbed in watching.
There's the expression "a sky of falling stars," but it's no exaggeration at all. The stars really do feel like they're falling down. More beautiful than a planetarium, and I'm moved that this many stars are visible.
Looking down at the sea from the jacuzzi, hearing the sound of the waves, the wind blowing, the warm water feeling good. Everything is too perfect, and I want to remember this moment forever.
The hour flew by, and I felt sad — over already? I want to stay in longer — but I resolve in my heart to definitely come again, and definitely book 21:00 next time too.
Apparently some people bring beer and watch the sunset, and I think that's nice too, but I'm a starry-sky person so the night time band is the best.
The Cafe Lunch Is More Delicious Than Imagined and Moves Me
Soraniwa also has an attached cafe, and a nice point is that you can enjoy lunch and cafe time even without staying.
Opening hours are lunchtime 11:30–15:00 and cafe time 15:00–18:00. The closed day is every Wednesday, so it's best to check before going.
A daily menu using local ingredients is popular, with creative dishes using island vegetables, fish and meat. There's an excitement of not knowing what will come out.
I ate lunch too, and was served from the appetiser one dish at a time with careful explanations, and I'm moved — this is so delicious. They use island ingredients lavishly, and the feeling of cherishing nature's blessings comes across. I think this kind of cooking stays in your heart.
The Miyako-beef hamburger set is apparently popular too, full of volume and filling. In high season it apparently gets crowded, so going at an early time or booking is recommended.
Being able to dine at a terrace seat while seeing the sea is the best too, with a pleasant wind. I seriously feel I want to spend forever here.
Cafe time has coffee, tea and mango drinks too, and sweets that change by the day, so it's enjoyable however many times you come.
I've visited at cafe time too, spent it slowly drinking coffee at a terrace seat while seeing the sea, and felt, this time is happiness.
At First I'm Bewildered to Hear There Are No Disposable Amenities
At check-in I was told "from an environmental-protection standpoint we don't have disposable amenities," and I'm surprised — huh, no toothbrush or anything? But hearing the explanation, I'm convinced.
You need to prepare your own toothbrush, razor and pyjamas, but bath towels and a hairdryer are provided. The shampoo and body soap are MARKS&WEB, and since I like this brand I think, nice.
At first I feel it's a bit inconvenient, but I accept it, thinking if it's for the environment it's fine. Room cleaning is also once every 3 days, and they change the towels daily, but there's no daily room cleaning.
Not having daily cleaning is, conversely, easier, I think. You can spend it at your own pace, so it's suited to a long stay too.
I feel the owner's stance of "from an environmental-protection standpoint" is lovely, and I seriously think it'd be nice if hotels like this increased.
At a large resort hotel, cleaning comes daily, amenities are disposable, and lots of rubbish comes out. But Soraniwa is minimal and eco-friendly. It makes you think this might be true luxury.
I come to think enjoying the inconvenience is also an option, and my thinking changes after staying. I become able to accept it normally, thinking, next time I come I'll just bring my own toothbrush.
Knowing the Owner's Wishes, I Empathise
Soraniwa's owners are a couple who moved here from Tokyo, and apparently they've run the cafe and hotel here since before the Irabu Bridge was built in 2010. What a big decision, I think.
Hearing they started from the wish "so it becomes a place for locals to 'yuntaku' (chat), and so visitors on holiday can feel Irabu Island's great nature," I feel it's a lovely wish.
Rooting a cafe culture in an era when the genre of shop called "cafe" didn't exist on Irabu Island is, I think, pioneering.
It's now become one of Irabu Island's leading popular cafes, but in the off-season longtime local regulars apparently drop by casually. I feel it's rooted in the local community.
I feel I can understand the feeling of the owner who decided to move, fascinated by Irabu Island overflowing with untouched nature, and for a moment I think I want to live here too.
The wish "I want you to taste a moving experience in nature" still remains, and the environment of waking to birdsong in the morning and feeling the sound of the waves is exactly that, I think. Not placing disposable amenities, and making room cleaning once every 3 days, all come from "respect for nature," which is consistent and wonderful.
side.B Overwhelms Me Just from a Viewing
side.B is a separate-building luxury condominium with a luxurious build of just 2 rooms.
There's sora and niwa, both over 100 square metres in size. A completely different world from side.A.
I stayed in side.A, but was shown side.B, and I'm surprised — this is too spacious, amazing.
side.B "sora" has an occupied area of over 100 square metres, in a superb location overlooking the sea. It has the opulence of a large 12-metre × 3-metre private pool.
It's an overflow pool spreading beyond the veranda, with an edgeless sky and sea visible. The pool's water surface and the sea's water surface look connected, and the official site writes "a one-of-a-kind luxury only here," but it's no exaggeration at all. I think, it really is so.
There's a 30-tatami living room and two 7.5-tatami bedrooms, with a capacity of 2 to 5 people. A size ideal for staying as a family or group, with a full-fledged island kitchen too. It's suited to a long stay, and I think it'd be the best to be able to stay a week or so.
The pool usage time is 8:00 to 21:00, and since it's not a heated pool it's cold in winter, but apparently the best in summer. Swim in the pool from the morning and eat breakfast while seeing the sea — just imagining it excites me.
side.B "niwa" is a room facing a green garden, with a different appeal from sora. The garden's greenery is beautiful, apparently a quiet, calm space.
It's sora for pool people and niwa for garden people, but I'm a pool person so it's sora, no question. I decide to stay in side.B next time.
The Guests-Only Breakfast Is the Best
Breakfast is a guests-only, no-booking system, alternating daily between Japanese and Western, with good balance and satisfying.
I ate breakfast too, and had delicious Japanese food along with the refreshing morning air on the ground-floor outdoor terrace, and I think, am I allowed this much luxury in the morning? Tasting the luxury of dining while seeing the sea from morning, I feel this is the best healing.
Dinner also alternates daily between Japanese and Western and is enjoyable, with volume. I saw a review saying it's very delicious, and it's truly so.
I've eaten dinner too, and am moved by the heartfelt cooking. Each dish is carefully made, and you can tell the ingredients' flavours are alive.
There are about 5 kinds of awamori too, nice for drink lovers. Meals can be had at your favourite seat in the cafe, so you can also eat at a terrace seat while seeing the sea. A meal while seeing the sea is exceptional, I think.
Nearby Sightseeing Spots and Access
Around Soraniwa there are many of Irabu Island's popular sightseeing spots. Since you're staying, I hope you'll enjoy the nearby sightseeing too.
15 Minutes by Car to 17END
17END is the tip of the Shimojishima Airport runway, a place where you can see an incredibly beautiful sea. It's about 15 minutes by car from Soraniwa, so dropping by after check-out is recommended too.
Going at low tide, the shallow sea spreads out and the emerald-green sea is beautiful. You can see planes taking off and landing too, so it's popular as a photo spot.
10 Minutes by Car to Toguchi-no-Hama
Toguchi-no-Hama is Irabu Island's most famous beach, characterised by pure-white sand and highly transparent sea. It's about 10 minutes by car from Soraniwa, just the right distance to go for a swim.
It's ideal for snorkelling too, where you can see colourful tropical fish. I enjoyed a course of swimming at Toguchi-no-Hama in the morning and then eating lunch at the Soraniwa cafe.
5 Minutes by Car to the Irabu Bridge
The Irabu Bridge is Japan's longest toll-free bridge at 3,540 metres, about 5 minutes by car from Soraniwa. The view from atop the bridge is beautiful, and it's popular as a drive course.
I've crossed the Irabu Bridge many times, and each time I think "this view is the best." Especially in the evening the sunset is beautiful, and it's recommended for photography too.
15 Minutes by Car to Miyako Shimojishima Airport
Miyako Shimojishima Airport is an airport on the island next to Irabu Island, about 15 minutes by car from Soraniwa. The sea around the airport is beautiful, and you pass it on the way to 17END.
The airport itself is small and cute too, so dropping by is good. There's a cafe too, where you can spend time slowly.
Amid Irabu Island's Construction Rush, I Want Soraniwa to Stay Unchanged
Irabu Island is now in a luxury-resort construction rush, with flashy buildings increasing. But Soraniwa is simple, using wood flooring, Ryukyu-plaster walls and natural materials, a place where the owner's individuality shines, I think.
There's no flashiness like a large resort, but I think this is fine, this is good. I wish for it to stay unchanged.
I understand, from staying, the reason for the high reviews like "the food might have been the most delicious on Miyako Island," "heartfelt cooking" and "a relaxing hotel."
It's not a perfect luxury resort, but this small scale and this owner's wishes are found nowhere else. I'm convinced of that.
The special feel of just 5 rooms, the starry sky from the rooftop jacuzzi, the over-100-square-metre room with a private pool, the cafe's delicious food. All in place, and there's me wondering when to come next.
Honestly Writing Who Soraniwa Suits and Doesn't Suit
From actually staying, there are people I think it suits and people I think it might not suit, so I'll write honestly.
People It Suits
People who want to spend it quietly
With only 5 rooms, you can spend it quietly and calmly.
People who want to see the stars
You can experience a sky of falling stars at the side.A rooftop jacuzzi, so it's the best.
People who want to stay in a room with a private pool
side.B "sora" has a 12-metre pool, so you can spend luxurious time.
People who love nature
It's an environment where you wake to birdsong in the morning and feel the sound of the waves, so it's exactly a moving experience in nature.
People who understand environmental protection
Not having disposable amenities is from an environmental-protection standpoint too, so I think you can understand it.
People who want to enjoy delicious food
The creative dishes using local ingredients are delicious, with many reviews saying "the food was the most delicious on Miyako Island."
People who want a long stay
side.B is over 100 square metres with a kitchen too, so it's ideal for staying a week or so.
People It Doesn't Suit
People who want a luxury resort
There's a sense of luxury, but not facilities to the extent of a large luxury resort, so it might feel lacking.
People who need disposable amenities
You need to bring your own, so it might feel troublesome.
People who want daily room cleaning
It's once every 3 days, so it doesn't suit people who want daily cleaning.
People without a car
A rental car is essential, so it's inconvenient without a car.
People who want to have lively fun
With only 5 rooms and quiet, it doesn't suit people who want lively fun.
Frequently Asked Questions and Answers
Let me sum up and answer questions often asked about Soraniwa.
Q1: Where is Soraniwa?
On the south side of Irabu Island, along the coast. The address is 721-1 Irabu, Irabu, Miyakojima City, Okinawa.
Q2: What's the access?
About 25 minutes by car from Miyako Airport, about 15 minutes from Shimojishima Airport. A rental car is essential.
Q3: Is there parking?
Yes. Free, for 15 cars.
Q4: What are the check-in and check-out times?
Check-in 15:00–18:00, check-out 11:00.
Q5: Is there a shuttle?
No. It ended at the end of March 2023.
Q6: How many rooms?
Just 5 rooms in 2 buildings.
Q7: What's the rate?
From ¥28,600 (about US$191) for 2 adults per night.
Q8: Are there disposable amenities?
No. From an environmental-protection standpoint, you need to bring your own toothbrush, razor and pyjamas.
Q9: Can anyone use the rooftop jacuzzi?
side.A guests only. 1-hour private use, 16:00–22:00, swimsuit required.
Q10: Is the side.B pool heated?
It's not a heated pool. It's cold in winter.
Q11: What are the cafe's opening hours?
Lunch 11:30–15:00, cafe 15:00–18:00 (17:00 last order).
Q12: What's the cafe's closed day?
Every Wednesday (and Thursday depending on the season).
Q13: What about breakfast and dinner?
Guests-only, alternating daily between Japanese and Western. No booking.
Q14: Is there Wi-Fi?
Yes. Usable in the rooms too.
Q15: Can children stay?
They can. However, it's a quiet environment, so with small children you might have to mind others.
A Special Place Where It Makes Sense You Can't Get a Booking
Staying at Soraniwa, I think from the heart it makes sense you can't get a booking. You understand from actually experiencing it that it's a place where you can taste luxurious time spent in a special space of just 5 rooms.
Soaking in the rooftop jacuzzi, a pitch-dark sea spreading before you, looking up to see many stars, the Milky Way clearly visible, shooting stars crossing. This is a lifelong memory, I think. A sky of falling stars — this expression isn't exaggeration, the stars really do feel like they're falling. More beautiful than a planetarium.
side.A is 3 rooms on the second floor of the same building as the cafe, all ocean-view with balconies. The windows are large, the sea seen from the veranda is blue, Miyako blue. With solid antique-style flooring and Ryukyu-plaster walls, it's a warm space, and I feel it's simple but comfortable.
side.B is a separate-building luxury condominium with just 2 rooms. sora has an occupied area of over 100 square metres, in a superb location overlooking the sea, with a large 12-metre × 3-metre private pool. "A one-of-a-kind luxury only here" really is so.
The cafe is popular too, with a daily menu using local ingredients, creative dishes using island vegetables, fish and meat, all delicious. Served from the appetiser one dish at a time with careful explanations, I'm moved by the heartfelt cooking.
Breakfast is on the ground-floor outdoor terrace, having delicious Japanese food along with the refreshing morning air, and I think, am I allowed this much luxury in the morning? Dinner alternates daily between Japanese and Western, with volume, and I'm satisfied it's very delicious.
It opened in spring 2010, operating since before the Irabu Bridge was built, a place an owner couple who moved from Tokyo started from the wish "I want you to taste a moving experience in nature."
There are no disposable amenities, but this is from an environmental-protection standpoint, and room cleaning is also once every 3 days. They change the towels daily, but basically you can spend it at your own pace.
If you come to Irabu Island, I can say with confidence I want you to stay at Soraniwa. Cross the Irabu Bridge from Miyako Island, turn left and proceed about 2 kilometres, and a white building comes into view, so I think you'll find it.
The moment you check in and enter the room, you think, ocean view! Drink coffee on the veranda and spend it gazing at the sea. I hope you'll feel this is the best healing.
When night comes, book the rooftop jacuzzi, go up to the rooftop at 21:00, and turn on the jacuzzi switch. I hope you'll taste the moment of catching your breath the instant you look up, many stars visible, the Milky Way clearly visible, shooting stars crossing, and "wow, amazing" slipping out.
In the morning, wake to birdsong, see the sea from the veranda, eat breakfast on the terrace while seeing the sea, and have delicious Japanese food along with the refreshing morning air. I hope you'll spend such luxurious time.
For lunch, at the cafe, eat the daily menu using local ingredients, creative dishes using island vegetables, fish and meat, all delicious — I hope you'll experience that.
Soraniwa isn't a perfect luxury resort, but I'm convinced this small scale and this owner's wishes are found nowhere else. The special feel of just 5 rooms, the starry sky from the rooftop jacuzzi, the luxurious room with a 12-metre pool, the cafe's delicious food. All in place, a place that makes you want to come again, so if you come to Irabu Island, I want you to definitely stay at Soraniwa.
