- Why the Brown-Sugar Castella Is So Superb You Can Only Buy It on the Island
- What Is Nagasakiya? A Long-Established Japanese-Western Sweet Shop on Irabu Island
- The Appeal of the Brown-Sugar Castella | The Gentle Sweetness of Sugar Cane
- Menu and Prices | Castella and Other Sweets
- The Reason for Irabu-Island-Only Sales
- Word of Mouth Spread from the Shimojishima Airport Trainees
- Tips for Buying at Nagasakiya Without Failing
- Delicious Ways to Eat the Brown-Sugar Castella
- Sights Around Nagasakiya
- The Pros and Cons of Nagasakiya
- Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- A Memorable Item of Irabu Island
Why the Brown-Sugar Castella Is So Superb You Can Only Buy It on the Island
The first time I ate Nagasakiya's brown-sugar castella was in the lobby of the Irabu Island hotel "Villabu Resort." At check-in, the moment I put in my mouth a slice served as a complimentary sweet in the lobby, I thought, "wait, what is this? It's incredibly delicious."
Moist, rich, yet not too sweet. The flavour of sugar cane spreads softly, completely different from Nagasaki castella. "Where can I buy this?" I asked at the front desk, and was told, "It's an island sweet shop called Nagasakiya. You can only buy it on Irabu Island."
Since then, I've come to always stop by Nagasakiya every time I go to Irabu Island. A small size for myself, a large size for souvenirs. I buy 2–3 every time. Even after returning to Tokyo, I remember it — "I want to eat that castella." It's that unforgettable a taste.
I'll introduce the brown-sugar castella of Irabu Island's hidden famous shop "Nagasakiya" thoroughly, based on my experience of visiting many times. The taste of the castella, the shop atmosphere, tips for buying, and why you can only buy it on Irabu Island — I'll write it all.
If you plan to go to Irabu Island, please absolutely drop by Nagasakiya. You'll surely meet the most delicious castella of your life.
What Is Nagasakiya? A Long-Established Japanese-Western Sweet Shop on Irabu Island
Nagasakiya is a long-established Japanese-Western sweet shop in the Kuninaka settlement of Irabu Island. The exact founding year isn't clear, but asking locals, they said "a shop that's been around for ages." That's how rooted in the island it is.
The Origin of the Name
Because of the name "Nagasakiya," I first wondered if it had a connection to Nagasaki Prefecture. But when I asked, it apparently has no particular connection to Nagasaki. Whether it's the owner's surname, or a respect towards Nagasaki castella — I don't know the details, but this curious shop name conversely sticks in the memory.
A Japanese-Western sweet shop named Nagasakiya, on the Okinawan remote island of Irabu. This gap is interesting.
Opening Hours and Closing Days
Opening hours:
- April–September: 10:00–19:00
- October–March: 10:00–18:00
Closing day: Sunday
Limited quantity, reservation recommended
The opening hours change by season. Until 19:00 in summer, until 18:00 in winter. The snack-time hours (around 14:00–16:00) easily form a queue, so take care.
Sunday is the closing day. I too once went on a Sunday and was disappointed — "ah, it's not open." It's better to check the day of the week before you go.
▶"Please check the latest opening hours and closing days on [Tabelog: Nagasakiya]"
Location and Access
Address: 85-3 Kuninaka, Irabu, Miyakojima City, Okinawa
Access: about 15 minutes by car after crossing the Irabu Bridge, about 10 minutes by car from Shimojishima Airport
Nagasakiya is in the Kuninaka settlement. A little in from Prefectural Route 252. Enter the side road by Minshuku Maruyoshi and it comes into view.
The first time you go, it may be a little hard to find. Search "Nagasakiya" on Google Maps and it comes up, but it's a small shop so take care not to miss it. Below the shop entrance there's yellow paint, cute like honey. That's the landmark.
There's a car park, but it's small. Only 2–3 cars can park. When busy, you have no choice but to park on the street.
The Appeal of the Brown-Sugar Castella | The Gentle Sweetness of Sugar Cane
Nagasakiya's signature product is, above all, the brown-sugar castella. Its formal name is "castella with sugarcane molasses." This castella is truly superb.
A Moist, Rich Texture
First, the texture is amazing. Moist and rich. The feeling of it unravelling softly in your mouth. There's not the slightest dryness.
Nagasaki castella has a fluffy, light texture, but Nagasakiya's castella is different. It's more substantial and satisfying to eat. But it isn't too heavy. An exquisite balance.
There's no coarse sugar on the bottom of the castella. Instead, sugarcane molasses is kneaded throughout the whole batter. So one bite, and the flavour of sugar cane spreads in your mouth.
The Flavour of Sugar Cane Spreads
This castella's biggest feature is the sugar-cane flavour. Because it uses brown sugar, it's a completely different taste from ordinary castella. There's the natural sweetness of sugar cane and the distinctive richness of brown sugar. But it isn't too sweet. Rather, a gentle sweetness. You think, so this is what "just right" means.
Nagasaki castella has the flavour of egg out front. But Nagasakiya's castella has the flavour of sugar cane as the lead. It's packed with Okinawan-ness.
Once You Eat It, You Can't Forget It
Honestly, the first time I ate it, I was shocked — "there's a castella this delicious." Of all the castella I've eaten until now, it's by far the most delicious. That night, eating the rest in my hotel room, I decided, "I'll buy another one to take home tomorrow." It's that unforgettable a taste once you eat it.
Even after returning to Tokyo, I sometimes crave it terribly. But since you can only buy it on Irabu Island, it's not easily obtained. So I want it all the more.
Menu and Prices | Castella and Other Sweets
Nagasakiya's menu is simple. But everything is handmade, with a rustic deliciousness.
Brown-Sugar Castella (Signature Product)
Price:
- Large: ¥1,400 (about US$9)
- Small: ¥800 (about US$5)
The brown-sugar castella comes in 2 sizes, large and small. The large is enough volume for a family of 5 to polish off. The small is just right for one person. I always buy a small for myself and 1–2 large for souvenirs. I eat the small at the hotel and take the large back to Tokyo to hand out to family and friends.
The castella comes in a gold box. Inside it's wrapped in plastic, firmly packaged. Even given as a souvenir, it looks good. At the shopfront they sometimes let you sample an offcut of castella. For first-timers, sampling before buying is an option too. Because one bite and you'll definitely want to buy it.
Sata-Andagi
Nagasakiya sells sata-andagi too. The traditional Okinawan fried sweet. Crisp outside, fluffy inside.
The sata-andagi isn't as famous as the brown-sugar castella, but this is delicious too. With a rustic sweetness, you could eat any number.
Incidentally, Irabu Island also has a super-famous sata-andagi shop called "Nakayukui Shoten." There, the purple-potato "sata-panbin" is popular. It's a different shop from Nagasakiya, so take care not to confuse them.
Cakes
It sells cakes too, like roll cake and shortcake. The price is around ¥300. Cakes are plain compared with the castella, but these are handmade and delicious too. Old-fashioned, rustic cakes. An unadorned, honest taste. I haven't bought a cake yet, but next time I go I intend to try one.
Celebrity Autograph Boards
Inside the shop, celebrity autograph boards are displayed. It's apparently been featured on TV too. I don't remember which celebrities' autographs there were, but that's how famous a shop it is. It's loved not only by locals but by tourists and celebrities too.
The Reason for Irabu-Island-Only Sales
Nagasakiya's brown-sugar castella can only be bought within Irabu Island. This is very important.
Production Can't Keep Up
Previously, it was apparently sold at the "Umi-no-Eki" by the Irabu Bridge too. But now you can only buy it at the shop. The reason is that production can't keep up. The owner, Kumiko Miyaguni, bakes them one by one by hand. So mass production isn't possible. There's a limit to the quantity. In fact, when I went on a weekday afternoon, I was once told, "today's portion has already sold out." It's so popular it disappears quickly.
Why Reservation Is Recommended
So if you want to definitely buy, it's better to reserve. They take reservations by phone. From my second visit on, I phone as soon as I arrive on Irabu Island and reserve, "I'll come pick it up tomorrow morning." That way, you can definitely buy.
Go without a reservation and there's a risk of sell-out. The snack-time hours (14:00–16:00) especially get crowded, so going in the morning is recommended.
Is There Online Sale?
Previously, I saw information that "it can apparently be bought online too." It was apparently sold at the Irabu Bridge Umi-no-Eki online shop. But whether it's still sold now is unclear. There's a possibility online sales were stopped because production can't keep up. If you want to definitely buy, after all, going to Irabu Island and buying at the shop is best. And buying after going to the island makes it a travel memory too.
Word of Mouth Spread from the Shimojishima Airport Trainees
The trigger for Nagasakiya's brown-sugar castella becoming famous was the Shimojishima Airport trainees.
Trainees Bought Them in Units of 10
Shimojishima Airport was previously used as a pilot training ground. Those trainees bought Nagasakiya's castella in units of 10 as souvenirs. When they finished training and returned to their hometowns, they took the castella home as "an Irabu Island souvenir." The family and friends who ate it spread the word — "this is so delicious!" That's how it spread more and more by word of mouth. Now it's become a shop many tourists visit, as an Irabu Island speciality.
Featured in the Media Too
It's been featured several times on TV and in magazines. So its fame is quite high. I myself didn't learn of it on TV first — eating it at the hotel was the trigger — but when I looked it up later, I found it's quite a famous shop. "When it comes to Irabu Island souvenirs, it's Nagasakiya's brown-sugar castella" has become the standard.
Loved by Locals Too
Not only tourists but locals come to buy normally too. As a snack, as a gift, it's used for various purposes. A shop loved by locals is a truly delicious shop. Such a shop is trustworthy.
Tips for Buying at Nagasakiya Without Failing
Through visiting many times, I've come to understand the smart way to buy at Nagasakiya. For first-timers, let me share the tips.
Reserve Before Going
The most reliable is to reserve before going. The phone number is 0980-78-3917.
Say "I'll come pick it up at such-and-such time on such-and-such day. One small and two large, please," and they'll set them aside. Reserve and you can definitely buy. No worry of sell-out. On Saturdays and during snack-time hours especially it gets crowded, so reservation is essential.
Go in the Morning
If you go without a reservation, the morning is recommended. Right after the 10:00 opening is the safest. In the afternoon, the chance it's sold out gets higher. After 14:00 especially needs caution. I too once forgot to reserve and went in the morning, and there was still stock then. When I went in the afternoon, it was sold out.
Note That Sunday Is Closed
Sunday is the closing day. This is easy to forget. I too once went on a Sunday, the shop was closed, and I went "argh, I messed up." The last day of my trip was a Sunday, so I missed buying the castella. So when arranging your travel schedule, it's better to avoid Sunday. Or buy it the day before, on Saturday.
Large or Small — Which to Buy
For yourself, the small is enough. A size one person can finish. For souvenirs, the large is recommended. It looks good and can be shared among many. I always buy a small for myself and a large for souvenirs. I eat the small at the hotel and take the large back to Tokyo.
Best-Before and Storage
The best-before is 3 days from the day of purchase. Surprisingly short. So buying on the last day of your trip is good. Or eat it as soon as you buy it. For storage, room temperature is fine. But in hot periods, putting it in the fridge might be better.
I put it in a cooler bag to take home. When I get home, I store it in the fridge. When eating, warming it lightly in a toaster oven revives the moistness and it's delicious.
Delicious Ways to Eat the Brown-Sugar Castella
Nagasakiya's brown-sugar castella is plenty delicious eaten as-is, but a little arranging lets you enjoy it more.
Eat It As-Is (The Basic)
First, eat it as-is with nothing added. This is the basic. To enjoy the castella's original taste, after all this is best. Cut it into bite-size pieces and savour it slowly. Chew while feeling the flavour of sugar cane. A blissful time.
Together with Coffee or Tea
Eating it together with coffee or tea is recommended too. The sweetness of the castella and the bitterness of coffee match exquisitely. I like eating it with coffee as an after-breakfast dessert. Eating it in the hotel room while looking at the sea. The greatest luxury.
Warm It Lightly in a Toaster Oven
Castella stored in the fridge revives its moistness when warmed lightly in a toaster oven. Just warm it lightly for about a minute. Over-warming makes it dry, so take care. Warm castella has a different deliciousness. The aroma of sugar cane is felt more strongly.
Add Fresh Cream or Ice Cream
When you want a little luxury, adding fresh cream or ice cream is an option too. The richness of the castella and the mellowness of fresh cream go together. For ice cream, vanilla or brown-sugar ice is recommended. When eating at the hotel, I once bought ice cream at a convenience store and ate it with the castella. It was incredibly delicious.
A Point When Giving It as a Souvenir
When giving it as a souvenir, adding a line like "it's a castella you can only buy on Irabu Island" makes people happy. Knowing there's rarity adds a more special feel. In fact, when I gave it to a friend, they were very happy. "This is so delicious! Where can you buy it?" they asked, and when I said "you can only buy it on Irabu Island," they went "wow, amazing!"
Sights Around Nagasakiya
Nagasakiya is in the Kuninaka settlement. There are lots of sights around here too, so touring them after buying castella is recommended.
Toguchi-no-Hama (10 Minutes by Car)
Toguchi-no-Hama is the most famous beach on Irabu Island. A spectacular spot where white sand and a transparent sea spread out. About 10 minutes by car from Nagasakiya. Buying castella and picnicking at Toguchi-no-Hama is nice too. Castella eaten at the beach is exceptional again.
Sawada-no-Hama (10 Minutes by Car)
Sawada-no-Hama is a beautiful beach chosen among Japan's 100 Best Beaches. Giant rocks lie scattered about, a distinctive landscape. The sunset is beautiful, and towards evening many tourists gather. Buying castella and eating it at Sawada-no-Hama while watching the sunset is the best too.
17END (15 Minutes by Car)
17END is the end of the Shimojishima Airport runway. A popular spot where you can see planes taking off and landing up close. About 15 minutes by car from Nagasakiya. Buying castella and eating it at 17END while watching the planes is fun too.
Shimojishima Airport (10 Minutes by Car)
Shimojishima Airport is a small airport on the boundary of Irabu and Shimojishima. The terminal was recently renewed, with stylish cafés and shops moving in. Buying coffee at the airport café and enjoying it with castella is nice too.
Nakayukui Shoten (5 Minutes by Car)
As I wrote earlier, Nakayukui Shoten is a super-famous sata-andagi shop. The purple-potato "sata-panbin" is popular. It's a different shop from Nagasakiya, but both are Irabu Island specialities. Going to both and comparing them is recommended too.
The Pros and Cons of Nagasakiya
Let me summarise the good points and the points that catch my attention about Nagasakiya, felt from actually visiting many times.
Pros
1. The brown-sugar castella is superb
A deliciousness you don't tire of however many times you eat it. The sugar-cane flavour is the best. Once you eat it, you can't forget it.
2. The rarity of Irabu-Island-only sales
Being island-only, it has rarity value. Given as a souvenir, people are very pleased.
3. The warmth of handmade
The owner bakes them one by one by hand. Not mass-produced, a taste with warmth.
4. Good shelf life
The best-before is 3 days, but stored chilled it keeps a little longer. Ideal for souvenirs.
5. Ideal for souvenirs
It comes in a box and looks good. The price is affordable too. The large size can be shared among many.
6. Loved by locals too
Not only tourists but locals come to buy. Proof of a truly delicious shop.
7. The other sweets are delicious too
The sata-andagi and cakes are rustic and delicious too. All handmade.
Cons
1. Limited quantity, easily sold out
So popular it sells out quickly. Often you can't buy without reserving.
2. Closed on Sundays
Closed on Sunday. Depending on your travel schedule, you may not be able to buy.
3. The location is hard to find
It's in the Kuninaka settlement, hard for first-timers to find. Google Maps is essential.
4. The car park is small
Only 2–3 cars can park. When busy, you have no choice but to park on the street.
5. A queue during snack-time hours
Around 14:00–16:00, a queue easily forms. People who dislike waiting should go in the morning.
6. Short best-before
It only keeps 3 days. You have to buy it on the last day of your trip, or eat it soon.
7. No online sale (probably)
You can't buy it without going to Irabu Island. It would be convenient if you could buy it by mail order.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Where is Nagasakiya?
85-3 Kuninaka, Irabu, Miyakojima City, Okinawa. In the Kuninaka settlement, the side road by Minshuku Maruyoshi. Search "Nagasakiya" on Google Maps and it comes up. About 10 minutes by car from Shimojishima Airport.
Q2: What are the opening hours?
April–September is 10:00–19:00, October–March is 10:00–18:00. The closing day is Sunday.
Q3: Are reservations needed?
If you want to definitely buy, reservation is recommended. The phone number is 0980-78-3917. Go without a reservation and there's a risk of sell-out.
Q4: What is the price of the brown-sugar castella?
Large is ¥1,400, small is ¥800. Large is for families, small is for one person.
Q5: What is the best-before?
3 days from the day of purchase. Room-temperature storage is fine, but the fridge is recommended in hot periods.
Q6: Can I buy it online?
Currently, you can only buy it at the shop (probably). It was previously sold at the Umi-no-Eki too, but now production can't keep up, so it's shop-only.
Q7: What items are there besides the brown-sugar castella?
Sata-andagi, roll cake, shortcake and so on. All handmade, around ¥300.
Q8: Does it get crowded during snack-time hours?
It does. Around 14:00–16:00, a queue easily forms. Going in the morning is recommended.
Q9: Is it suited to souvenirs?
It is. It comes in a box and looks good. Since you can only buy it on Irabu Island, it has rarity value too.
Q10: How does it differ from Nagasaki castella?
Completely different. Nagasakiya's castella uses sugarcane molasses, with a strong brown-sugar flavour. Nagasaki castella has the flavour of egg out front. In texture too, Nagasakiya's is more substantial.
A Memorable Item of Irabu Island
Nagasakiya's brown-sugar castella is an item you should absolutely buy if you go to Irabu Island. There's no other souvenir that gives this much satisfaction for ¥1,400.
The shock of the first time I ate it, I still can't forget. Moist and rich, the flavour of sugar cane spreading, I thought from the heart, "this is truly delicious."
Irabu Island has a beautiful sea, white sand and lovely sunsets. But Nagasakiya's brown-sugar castella becomes just as important a memory.
At the end of the trip, buy castella at Nagasakiya. After returning to Tokyo, hand it out to friends and family. Give it while saying "this is a castella you can only buy on Irabu Island." Everyone takes one bite and is surprised — "so delicious!"
Such moments are a joy. You can share the memory of the trip with people. Nagasakiya's castella has that kind of power.
If you plan to go to Irabu Island, please do try dropping by Nagasakiya. Reserve before going and you can definitely buy. And take one bite, and feel "so this is the famous brown-sugar castella."
I too, next time I go to Irabu Island, will definitely go to Nagasakiya again. This time I intend to buy 3 large. One for myself, two for souvenirs. And there should be new discoveries again.
Irabu Island's blue sea, white sand, lovely sunsets. And Nagasakiya's brown-sugar castella. With all of these in place, it becomes the best trip. I want you to experience such a trip too.
