[Important notice] "Birafuya (GUEST HOUSE nesou)" introduced in this article ended its operations on Irabu Island in November 2020, and reopened on Iriomote Island in spring 2022. It no longer operates on Irabu Island.
- The memory and present of a social guesthouse loved for 14 years
- What was Birafuya (GUEST HOUSE nesou)? The basics
- The appeal of an old-house guesthouse | a handmade-feel cosiness
- The socialising born from the yuntaku space | encounters between travellers
- Within walking distance of Sawada-no-Hama | a great location
- Five days at Birafuya | unforgettable memories
- The pros and cons of Birafuya
- Why Birafuya closed, and the move to Iriomote Island
- For people looking for a social guesthouse on Irabu Island | currently operating alternatives
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
- Q1: Is Birafuya still operating?
- Q2: Where is the new guesthouse on Iriomote Island?
- Q3: Is there a similar social guesthouse on Irabu Island?
- Q4: How much were the rates in the Birafuya era?
- Q5: Who was Birafuya recommended for?
- Q6: How do you book the new guesthouse on Iriomote Island?
- Q7: What are the recommended sights on Irabu Island?
- Q8: What is the most memorable thing from your time at Birafuya?
- Q9: How do you get to Irabu Island?
- Q10: Does the new guesthouse on Iriomote Island keep the atmosphere of the Irabu Island era?
- The memory of Birafuya, and travels to come
The memory and present of a social guesthouse loved for 14 years
Still, there is a reason I wanted to write about this guesthouse. The "Birafuya" where I stayed in the summer of 2018 was a truly special social guesthouse, loved by locals and travellers alike on Irabu Island for 14 years.
The first time I went to Irabu Island, I was searching with the condition "a cheap guesthouse where I can socialise", and I found the name "Birafuya" on a review site. The ratings were all things like "a handmade-feel old-house guesthouse", "the owner couple are warm", and "the socialising between travellers is fun". I booked and went, and it was even cosier than I imagined, so my planned 3 nights stretched to 5.
That guesthouse is no longer on Irabu Island. But there must still be people who go to Irabu Island seeking the same "socialising between travellers" and "warm atmosphere". So I decided to write this article, as a record of the past and as information for people heading to Iriomote Island from now on.
For people looking for a similar social guesthouse on Irabu Island, I will introduce currently operating alternatives in the second half of the article. I will also include information on the new "GUEST HOUSE nesou" on Iriomote Island, so if you are someone who "loved Birafuya", I hope you will reunite with it on Iriomote.
What was Birafuya (GUEST HOUSE nesou)? The basics
Birafuya was a social guesthouse that operated on Irabu Island from around 2006 until November 2020. It was a converted old house, with a dormitory and private rooms. In 2017 it changed its name to "GUEST HOUSE nesou", but locals and regulars kept calling it "Birafuya".
The owners were Mr. Raita Dobashi and his wife. The warm character of the two of them, and the way they created an atmosphere where travellers naturally became friends, were this guesthouse's greatest appeal.
Past operating information (as of 2018)
Address: Irabu, Miyakojima City, Okinawa
Operating period: around 2006 to November 2020 (about 14 years)
Name change: from "Birafuya" to "GUEST HOUSE nesou" in 2017
Current status: closed November 2020, reopened on Iriomote Island in spring 2022
▶Check the details on the official site
I stayed in the summer of 2018, when it was still operating under the name "Birafuya". It was within walking distance of Sawada-no-Hama, and you could see the sea from the rooftop. It was close to Shimojishima Airport too, so the access was not bad.
The appeal of an old-house guesthouse | a handmade-feel cosiness
When I arrived at Birafuya, I intuitively thought, "Ah, this looks cosy." It was a converted old Okinawan house, without the sparkle of a new hotel, but that was exactly what made it good.
The feel of the building and rooms
It was a wooden old house, with age showing on the floors and walls. But it was properly cleaned and felt clean. The handmade-feel interior gave off a warmth like "being allowed to stay at someone's home".
The dormitory was mixed-gender, but each bed had a curtain, securing a minimum of privacy. There were private rooms too, so people who think "I want to enjoy socialising, but want private space when I sleep" could choose those.
I stayed in the dormitory. It was around ¥2,500 (about US$17) a night, I think. Among Irabu Island's lodgings it was the cheapest class. And even so, you could use the shared space and the kitchen, and naturally become friends with other travellers. The value was superb.
The sea view from the rooftop
Being able to go up to the rooftop was another good thing about this guesthouse. You could see the sea of Sawada-no-Hama, and towards evening people gathered on the rooftop to watch the sunset. Beer in hand, gazing at the sunset, talking about where you went today or what to do tomorrow: that time was genuinely comforting.
At night, a sky full of stars. Irabu Island has few streetlights, so the stars look incredibly beautiful. On the first night, as I lay on the rooftop looking up at the stars, I saw three shooting stars. A sight you could never see in the city.
The socialising born from the yuntaku space | encounters between travellers
Birafuya's greatest appeal was, above all, the "yuntaku space". Yuntaku is an Okinawan dialect word meaning "chatting". A place of socialising naturally formed in the shared space, where people cooked and ate together, or drank and talked.
The fun of cooking in the shared kitchen
The shared kitchen was stocked with basic cooking utensils and seasonings. You bought ingredients at the nearby supermarket, and all the guests cooked together. When someone called out "I'm making curry, want some?", another person would say "Then I'll make a salad", and before you knew it about five people were cooking together in high spirits.
On the first night too, when I called out "I'll make Miyako soba", others said "Then I'll make a stir-fry" and "I'll go buy beer", and roles naturally got divided up. Eating the food we made that way while talking about our travels was genuinely fun.
The owner couple, the Dobashis, sometimes ate with us too, and told us all sorts of things: hidden spots on Irabu Island, beaches only locals know. That kind of information is not in the guidebooks.
Natural connections between travellers
Some people, I think, are "not keen on the feeling of being forced to socialise" at a guesthouse. But Birafuya was different. People who wanted to socialise could go to the shared space, and people who wanted alone time could stay in their room. There was no forced atmosphere whatsoever.
But when you went to the shared space, there was always someone there, and conversation started naturally. "Where did you go today?" "What are you doing tomorrow?" "Then let's go together", and in that flow, before you knew it you were out sightseeing together.
I went to Toguchi-no-Hama with a university student I met at the guesthouse, and on another day went to 17END with a pair of working women. I was travelling alone, but I was not lonely at all. If anything, there was a lot of socialising you can only enjoy precisely because you are travelling solo.
The warmth of the owner couple
The character of the Dobashis was, I think, what created this guesthouse's atmosphere. Not pushy, but if you had a problem they would earnestly listen and help. They told you recommended sightseeing spots, helped arrange a hire car.
Their feeling of "we want you to come to love Irabu Island" came through strongly. So the guests all came to love Irabu Island and this guesthouse too. I think a good cycle had formed.
Within walking distance of Sawada-no-Hama | a great location
Birafuya was within walking distance of Sawada-no-Hama. I don't remember the exact distance, but it was about a 5 to 10-minute walk. Getting up early in the morning and walking to Sawada-no-Hama as a stroll became my daily routine.
Morning and evening at Sawada-no-Hama
Sawada-no-Hama is a natural beach chosen as one of "Japan's Top 100 Beaches". Enormous boulders lie scattered around, a landscape utterly different from other beaches. In the morning there are few people and it is quiet, and you hear only the sound of waves and the voices of birds. Walking through it barefoot felt wonderful.
In the evening, you go to see the sunset. The sunset at Sawada-no-Hama is truly beautiful. The scenery created by the sun sinking into the horizon and the silhouettes of the giant rocks never grew old no matter how many times I saw it. You can see it from the guesthouse rooftop too, but going to the beach really has more impact.
On the way back to the guesthouse, you could think, "Today was a good day too." That kind of peaceful time was the appeal of a stay at Birafuya.
Access to nearby sights
Shimojishima Airport is about a 10-minute drive. 17END is close too, so by going first thing in the morning you can have it to yourself before other tourists arrive. Toguchi-no-Hama is about a 15-minute drive, so it is convenient for a swim too.
With a hire car, you can tour all the main spots of Irabu Island and Shimojishima. The guesthouse helped arrange a hire car too, so even on a first visit to Irabu Island I could sightsee without getting lost.
Five days at Birafuya | unforgettable memories
Even though I had booked for 3 nights, I ended up staying 5. I decided to extend on the second night. While all the guests were eating together in the shared space, I naturally thought, "I want to stay here a bit longer."
Time with the people I met at the guesthouse
The university student I met on day one was travelling solo on a graduation trip. He said, "I haven't decided what to do in the future, but for now I'm travelling", which was somehow heart-warming. We went to Toguchi-no-Hama together and snorkelled. The water was so clear you could see the seabed distinctly, and the two of us kept saying "amazing, amazing" to each other.
The pair of working women who came on day two were company classmates and apparently good friends. They were saying "I want to quit my job, right?" "I get it", and I could only sympathise. We went to 17END together and drank beer while watching the aircraft. "You could never have this kind of luxurious time in Tokyo", the three of us laughed.
On day three, a repeat-visitor uncle came. He said "this is my 5th time at Birafuya", and apparently comes every year. He told me all sorts of hidden spots on Irabu Island. Diners only locals go to, hidden beaches. That kind of information was genuinely appreciated.
Why I decided to extend my stay
Honestly, at first I thought "3 nights is plenty". Irabu Island is a small island, and you can tour the main spots in 2 days. But staying at Birafuya, my trip became not "touring sightseeing spots" but "spending island time slowly".
Getting up at a leisurely pace in the morning, drinking coffee at a nearby cafe, reading a book on the beach in the daytime, watching the sunset at Sawada-no-Hama in the evening, cooking at the guesthouse at night and talking with other travellers. That kind of time doing nothing felt incredibly luxurious.
Thinking "I want to stay here longer", I decided to extend. Forgetting all about work and life in Tokyo, just enjoying the "now". Places where you can spend that kind of time are not so many.
The pros and cons of Birafuya
Here is a summary of the good points and the points that gave me pause, from actually staying 5 nights.
Pros
1. The price is cheap
The dormitory was around ¥2,500 (about US$17) a night. Even a private room was about ¥4,000 (about US$27). It was the cheapest class among Irabu Island's lodgings.
2. The socialising between travellers is fun
An atmosphere where conversation arose naturally in the shared space. Not lonely even on a solo trip. You meet all kinds of people, and the fun of travel multiplies many times over.
3. The owner couple are warm
The Dobashis' character is genuinely lovely. They told you local information, helped if you had a problem. It was a guesthouse that made you think "I want to come again".
4. You can self-cater in the shared kitchen
Cooking utensils and seasonings were all there. There was a supermarket nearby too, so you could buy ingredients and cook. You could keep food costs down even on a long stay.
5. Sawada-no-Hama is within walking distance
Ideal for a morning stroll or watching the sunset. Being an easy distance from the guesthouse was genuinely good.
6. A homely atmosphere
None of the impersonal feel of a big hotel. There is a warmth like "being allowed to stay at someone's home".
7. You can see the sea from the rooftop
Both the sunset and the starry sky can be seen from the rooftop. Time spent gathering with all the guests, enjoying the view over a beer, was the best.
Cons
1. The facilities were old
Being an old house, the building itself had aged. It is not for people who want the comfort of a new hotel.
2. The dormitory was mixed-gender
The beds had curtains, but you could not expect complete privacy. People bothered by that were better off choosing a private room.
3. It closed in winter
I have a memory that it was closed from around November to March. People wanting to go in winter needed to look for another guesthouse.
4. Not suited to people who dislike socialising
Being centred on the shared space, it is not for people who want to shut themselves alone in their room the whole time.
5. Few restaurants nearby
You had to self-cater or move by car, or meals were difficult. There were hardly any diners within walking distance.
Why Birafuya closed, and the move to Iriomote Island
In November 2020, Birafuya ended its 14 years of operation and closed. The reason is not clear in detail, but it was apparently an issue with the building's lease. The Dobashis decided to leave Irabu Island and began searching for a new place.
Then, in spring 2022, it reopened as "GUEST HOUSE nesou" in Uehara (Nakano settlement) on Iriomote Island. They fully renovated a 38-year-old house over a year and a half, building a new guesthouse.
A guesthouse that keeps the atmosphere of the Irabu Island-era "Birafuya" while becoming more comfortable and cosier. I want to go someday too. Precisely because I have memories from Irabu Island, I am really curious what kind of guesthouse the new "nesou" on Iriomote Island is.
GUEST HOUSE nesou (Iriomote Island) basic information
Address: Uehara 339-14, Taketomi Town, Yaeyama District, Okinawa (Nakano settlement)
Official site: http://nesou.net/
Opened: spring 2022
Room types: 3 private rooms
Features:
- A 38-year-old house, fully renovated
- A spacious shared space
- Nakano Beach right behind the guesthouse (snorkelling possible)
- A location where you can see the sunrise
From the dormitory-centred setup of the Irabu Island era, on Iriomote Island it changed to a configuration of 3 private rooms. The shared space is generously sized, and apparently you can still enjoy socialising between guests just as before. Nakano Beach is right behind the guesthouse, an environment where you can spend a relaxed time watching the sunrise.
Booking is via the official site. You can book from 3 months before your desired check-in date. As it is a popular guesthouse, early booking is recommended.
For people looking for a social guesthouse on Irabu Island | currently operating alternatives
Some people, I think, go to Irabu Island thinking "I want to stay at a social guesthouse like Birafuya". For those people, here are currently operating social guesthouses.
Social guesthouse Irabu Journey Inn
Official site: https://ilovejourney.com/
Instagram: @irabu_journey
Features:
- A 40-year-old old house, fully renovated
- A quiet spot in the Sawada area
- Guests mainly in their 20s and 30s
- A potluck dinner gathering every night
- A starry-sky sauna
- 1-minute walk to the sea
- 5-minute drive from Shimojishima Airport
Irabu Journey Inn is, like Birafuya, a guesthouse with "socialising" as its concept. There is a potluck dinner gathering every night, with an atmosphere where guests naturally become friends. There is even an unusual facility called a starry-sky sauna, where apparently you can have the experience of looking up at the stars after working up a sweat in the sauna.
The location is good too: being in the Sawada area, it is close to Sawada-no-Hama. With a 1-minute walk to the sea, it is convenient for a morning stroll or watching the sunset. Being a 5-minute drive from Shimojishima Airport, the access from the airport is outstanding.
It says guests are mainly in their 20s and 30s, but other age groups should be able to stay without issue. For people who think "I want to make travel friends" or "I'm travelling solo but want to enjoy socialising", it is a guesthouse I highly recommend.
Guesthouse Ocean (Irabu Island)
Address: Maezato-soe 554-1, Irabu, Miyakojima City, Okinawa
Phone: 090-7862-0479
Features:
- 1-minute walk to Sabautsuga (the Blue Cave)
- A snorkelling point right in front
- An ocean view from the rooftop
- 5-minute walk to a supermarket
- Separate toilets and showers for men and women
- Car hire also operating
Guesthouse Ocean is right near Sabautsuga, famous as the Blue Cave. An irresistible location for snorkelling lovers. From the rooftop you have a full view of the sea, and at night you can see a sky full of stars.
With separate toilets and showers for men and women, even a woman travelling alone can stay with peace of mind. With a supermarket a 5-minute walk away, self-catering is convenient too. Rather than socialising, it is perhaps a guesthouse for people who want to enjoy snorkelling and diving.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Q1: Is Birafuya still operating?
It is not. It ended its operations on Irabu Island in November 2020, and relocated to Iriomote Island and reopened in spring 2022. It currently operates as "GUEST HOUSE nesou" in Uehara (Nakano settlement) on Iriomote Island.
Q2: Where is the new guesthouse on Iriomote Island?
It is in the Nakano settlement, near Uehara Port on Iriomote Island. The address is "Uehara 339-14, Taketomi Town, Yaeyama District, Okinawa". Nakano Beach is right behind the guesthouse, where you can enjoy snorkelling too.
Q3: Is there a similar social guesthouse on Irabu Island?
Yes. "Social guesthouse Irabu Journey Inn" is currently operating. There is a potluck dinner gathering every night, where you can enjoy socialising between guests. It is in the Sawada area, a prime location with a 1-minute walk to the sea.
Q4: How much were the rates in the Birafuya era?
As of 2018 when I stayed, the dormitory was around ¥2,500 (about US$17) a night, and a private room was about ¥4,000 (about US$27). It was the cheapest class among Irabu Island's lodgings.
Q5: Who was Birafuya recommended for?
It was recommended for solo travellers who want to enjoy socialising, people who want to keep costs down, and people who like a homely atmosphere. Conversely, it was not for people who want new facilities or who value privacy.
Q6: How do you book the new guesthouse on Iriomote Island?
You can book via the official site (http://nesou.net/). You can book from 3 months before your desired check-in date. As it is a popular guesthouse, early booking is recommended.
Q7: What are the recommended sights on Irabu Island?
Sawada-no-Hama (beautiful sunset), Toguchi-no-Hama (white sand and clear sea), 17END (spectacular aircraft and sea), Nakanoshima Beach (snorkelling), and Makiyama Observatory (a full view of the island) are recommended. You can reach all of them within a 20-minute drive.
Q8: What is the most memorable thing from your time at Birafuya?
The night everyone made and ate food together in the shared space. Five guests made Miyako soba and stir-fries and such, talked about travel over beer, and laughed until late at night. That time was genuinely fun.
Q9: How do you get to Irabu Island?
About a 30-minute drive from Miyako Airport across the Irabu Ohashi Bridge. Or about a 5 to 10-minute drive from Shimojishima Airport. The drive across the Irabu Ohashi Bridge is sightseeing in itself. The sensation of driving over the sea is the best.
Q10: Does the new guesthouse on Iriomote Island keep the atmosphere of the Irabu Island era?
As far as the official site shows, it seems to keep the shared space where you can enjoy socialising and the homely atmosphere. That said, it has changed from a dormitory to a configuration of 3 private rooms, so the feel may be a little different. You won't know until you actually go, but as it is a guesthouse the Dobashis create, it is surely cosy.
The memory of Birafuya, and travels to come
Birafuya is no longer on Irabu Island. But the 5 days I spent at that guesthouse remain within me as a memory that will never fade.
The atmosphere where travellers naturally became friends, the warmth of the Dobashis, the night everyone made and ate food together in the shared space, the time spent drinking beer while watching the sunset on the rooftop, the mornings walking barefoot on Sawada-no-Hama. All of it was special.
It is sad that the guesthouse is gone, but I am genuinely happy that the Dobashis started a new guesthouse on Iriomote Island. Someday I want to go to "GUEST HOUSE nesou" on Iriomote Island and tell them, "I loved Birafuya on Irabu Island." And spend another lovely time at the new guesthouse.
For people looking for a social guesthouse on Irabu Island, I recommend "Irabu Journey Inn". Because it is a guesthouse with the same kind of atmosphere as Birafuya, where travellers naturally connect.
The fun of travel is not only touring sightseeing spots. What kind of guesthouse you stay at, what kind of people you meet, what kind of time you spend. All of it is part of the journey. The time I spent at Birafuya taught me that.
If you are going to Irabu Island, I really hope you will try staying at a social guesthouse. You won't be lonely even on a solo trip; if anything, there are encounters you can enjoy precisely because you are travelling solo. I hope you too will experience that kind of travel.
