Sadly, it has closed down. There is a separate branch, which we will check soon!
- A holy site of fisherman fare where a tub-piled bowl costs 900 yen
- What is Uoichiba Ichiwa? A diner run by Sarahama Fishing Port
- The appeal of the popular "tub-piled bowl"
- Sarahama soba | the signature bonito-everything soba
- Namari-bushi and souvenirs
- Crowds and tips for visiting
- At night it transforms into the izakaya "Shimazake to Uminchu no Meshidokoro"
- Sights around Ichiwa
- The pros and cons of Ichiwa
- Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
- Q1: Where is Ichiwa?
- Q2: What are the opening hours?
- Q3: Are reservations needed?
- Q4: What is the price of the tub-piled bowl?
- Q5: What are the four ways to eat it?
- Q6: What are the payment methods?
- Q7: Is there parking?
- Q8: Is it okay with children?
- Q9: Can you buy namari-bushi?
- Q10: Do you need a reservation for the evening izakaya?
- The taste of a fishing town for 900 yen
A holy site of fisherman fare where a tub-piled bowl costs 900 yen
The first time I went to Uoichiba Ichiwa was on an early afternoon drive around Irabu Island. Crossing the Irabu Ohashi Bridge and turning right, following the road for about 5 minutes and going down a steep slope, the sea spread out before me. That was Sarahama Fishing Port.
Right in front of the port, I saw a red sign. "Uoichiba Ichiwa". I parked the car in the car park, went into the shop, and there was a ticket machine. Looking at the menu, I was surprised by the price "Tuna and Bonito Tub-Piled Bowl, ¥900". Isn't that too cheap?
I bought a meal ticket and took a seat. The interior is spacious, with table seats and tatami areas side by side. Tourists and locals alike all eat their seafood bowls at the same tables.
After waiting about 10 minutes, the tub-piled bowl was brought over. Sashimi was heaped so it spilled out of the tub. The tuna and bonito glittered. "This for ¥900? Seriously?" the words came out of me.
One bite and I thought, "Ah, this is incredible." Fresh. Incredibly fresh. Fish just landed at the port right in front. It was the first time I had eaten bonito this delicious.
A member of staff told me, "There are four ways to eat it." Bonito soy sauce, fisherman's sauce, namari spicy pickle, and ara-jiru (fish-bone soup). I tried them all. All delicious. Eating it with the ara-jiru poured over at the end was simply perfect.
If you have plans to go to Irabu Island, I really want you to stop by Ichiwa. There is no other place where ¥900 can make you this happy.
What is Uoichiba Ichiwa? A diner run by Sarahama Fishing Port
Uoichiba Ichiwa is a diner and direct-sales shop run by the port, right in front of Sarahama Fishing Port. In April 2021 it reopened, renewed as "Sarahama Dining Ichiwa".
About Sarahama Fishing Port
Sarahama Fishing Port is a port on the eastern side of Irabu Island. It accounts for 80 to 90 percent of Okinawa Prefecture's bonito catch, a holy site of bonito fishing. When you say Irabu Island, you say bonito. It has flourished as a fishing town since long ago. The people of Sarahama all live by the sea. Boats go out early in the morning, and fresh fish is landed by evening. Being able to eat that fish straight away is Ichiwa. From the port to the diner, a 30-second walk. You cannot eat fresher fish anywhere else.
The origin of the name and its history
The origin of the name "Ichiwa" I looked into but could not find. But I understand the owner's feeling. The concept is "to share the joy of a big, bountiful catch with as many people as possible". The culture of celebrating a big, bountiful catch that fishermen and local people have protected. They want tourists to taste that joy too. It is with that feeling that they run the shop. So when you go to Ichiwa, you feel the warmth of a fishing town. Not a shop aimed at tourists, but a shop where locals come as a matter of course. That is what is good about it.
Opening hours and closing days
Lunch: 11:00–15:00
Evening (izakaya): 17:00–21:00 (last orders 20:00)
Closing days: irregular
▶"Please check the latest opening hours and closing days at [Tabelog Uoichiba Ichiwa]"
It runs as a lunch service in the daytime, and in the evening as an izakaya called "Shimazake to Uminchu no Meshidokoro" (island sake and the fisherman's eatery). You can enjoy both day and night.
The closing days are irregular. It is best to check by phone before you go. I once went and it was closed. I was disappointed.
Location and access
Address: Irabu Aza Ikemazoe 6-19, Miyakojima City, Okinawa
Phone: 0980-79-0510
Access: cross the Irabu Ohashi Bridge and turn right, follow the road for 5 minutes
Once you cross the Irabu Ohashi Bridge, turn right immediately. Continue along the road, and going down a steep slope, Sarahama Fishing Port comes into view. On the left, a red sign. That is Ichiwa.
It is an easy place to find, so I do not think you will get lost. Search for "Uoichiba Ichiwa" on Google Maps and it comes up properly.
There is parking for 3 cars in front of the shop. If it is full, you can use the port's communal car park. The space is wide, so it holds many cars.
The appeal of the popular "tub-piled bowl"
Ichiwa's signature dish is the tub-piled bowl. A high-impact seafood bowl with sashimi heaped so it spills out of the tub.
Tuna and Bonito Tub-Piled Bowl
Price:
- Regular: ¥900 (about US$6)
- Large: ¥1,300 (about US$9)
A tub-piled bowl with tuna and bonito as the mains. Even the regular has plenty of volume. The large size is hugely satisfying.
In the tub, tuna and bonito are packed in tightly. So much sashimi that you cannot see the white rice. The glittering sashimi is like jewels.
¥900 for the regular, ¥1,300 for the large. This quantity for this price. The best value going. Seafood bowls at other tourist spots cost ¥2,000 or ¥3,000, but Ichiwa is ¥900. Because it is run by the port, it is this cheap.
Seafood-Loaded Tub-Piled Bowl
Price: ¥1,500 (about US$10) (large size)
A deluxe version of the tub-piled bowl, with tuna, bonito, squid, salmon roe, negitoro, octopus, salmon and prawn.
For people who want to enjoy a variety of seafood, this is the recommendation. For people who find just tuna and bonito not quite enough and want to eat more kinds.
This one is also heaped so it spills out of the tub. If you can eat this many kinds for ¥1,500, it is a good deal.
Four ways to eat it
Ichiwa's tub-piled bowl has four ways to eat it. I want you to try them all.
1. Eat it with Irabu Island bonito soy sauce
The Irabu Island bonito soy sauce placed on the table. A dashi soy sauce with a faint aroma of bonito.
Drizzle it lightly over the sashimi. The umami of the bonito brings out the deliciousness of the sashimi. It is not salty, so it is fine even if you pour a generous amount.
2. Eat it with fisherman's sauce
The fisherman's sauce is a sweet sauce. A flavour like a soy-sauce base with mirin and sugar added.
Pour plenty over the sashimi. The sweet-savoury flavour goes well with rice. A flavour that is easy for children to eat too.
3. Eat it with namari spicy pickle
The namari spicy pickle is a mildly spicy tsukudani of bonito namari-bushi with chilli.
Put it on the rice together with the sashimi. The mild spice becomes an accent. It is also superb as a snack with drinks.
4. Eat it with ara-jiru poured over
At the end, eat it with ara-jiru poured over. This is my favourite.
Ara-jiru is a soup full of fish umami, made from the bones of bonito and tuna. Pour this over the rice and sashimi. It is like ochazuke.
Because you can eat it smoothly, it is ideal as a finisher. Even when you are full, pour the ara-jiru over and you can eat again. Strange.
Sarahama soba | the signature bonito-everything soba
Ichiwa's other signature dish is Sarahama soba. A soba lavishly using bonito, that you can only eat here.
The features of Sarahama soba
Sarahama soba is completely different from ordinary Miyako soba. What is different is that it is bonito-everything.
Fish: kakuni (braised cubes) made from fresh tuna and bonito landed on Irabu Island
Flakes: richly flavoured katsuobushi, smoked from bonito landed on Irabu Island
Stock: a deeply flavoured soup using fresh raw bonito caught on Irabu Island
Noodles: handmade noodles made at an Irabu Island noodle factory
Everything Irabu Island-produced. The ultimate form of local production for local consumption.
The deliciousness of the soup
The soup is incredibly delicious. The bonito stock comes through, with a deep flavour. It has clarity, and is light yet has richness.
Miyako soba normally takes its stock from pork bones or dried bonito flakes, but Sarahama soba takes its stock from raw bonito. So the bonito flavour is strong.
For bonito lovers, an irresistible flavour. You could eat rice with just the soup.
Kakuni and katsuobushi toppings
The ingredients too are bonito-everything. Tuna and bonito kakuni is piled on generously. The kakuni is seasoned sweet and savoury, and tender.
On top of that, plenty of katsuobushi. The fluffy katsuobushi soaks into the soup and becomes moist. The aroma of the katsuobushi stirs the appetite.
Plenty of spring onion is on top too, with good colour. It looks delicious too.
Price
The price of Sarahama soba I looked into but could not find. But Ichiwa's menu items are all reasonable. It is probably around ¥800 to ¥1,000, I think.
The tub-piled bowl is ¥900, so the soba is in about that price band too.
Namari-bushi and souvenirs
Ichiwa is not just a diner, but doubles as a direct-sales shop. Inside, bonito processed products are sold.
What is namari-bushi?
Namari-bushi is a soft dried bonito, half-raw and smoked. Unlike fully dried bonito, it is moist and can be eaten as it is.
A specialty of Irabu Island. Bonito landed at Sarahama is smoked at the island's bonito-flake factory.
The flavour is rich and full of umami. Ideal as a snack with drinks. Delicious put on rice too.
Namari spicy pickle
A mildly spicy tsukudani of namari-bushi with chilli. Ichiwa's signature product.
This is incredibly delicious. Mildly spicy, with the umami of bonito condensed. You could eat any number of bowls of rice.
What is served alongside the tub-piled bowl is also this "namari spicy pickle". You can buy it in the shop too. Ideal as a souvenir.
Moist spicy bonito flakes
Another popular product is "moist spicy bonito flakes". Namari-bushi made into flakes, like a furikake.
This is mildly spicy and delicious too. It is delicious sprinkled on rice, as a filling for rice balls, or mixed into pasta. An all-purpose seasoning.
I bought some to take home as a souvenir too. When I ate it in Tokyo, the taste of Irabu Island came back to life. I wanted to eat it again, so I bought more by mail order.
Crowds and tips for visiting
Ichiwa is a popular shop, so it can get crowded. Especially at lunchtime.
Lunchtime crowded with tour-bus guests
11:30–13:00 at noon is the most crowded time. Tour buses sometimes come, and it can fill up all at once.
I once went a little after noon and a tour bus was parked, and the interior was full. I waited about 10 minutes.
When tour-bus guests come, it gets lively all at once. But the turnover is fast, so you do not wait that long.
An early visit is recommended
If you want to avoid the crowds, just after the 11:00 opening or a late lunch after 13:30 is recommended.
Just after the 11:00 opening, it is still empty. You can pick any seat. You can eat at a relaxed pace.
After 13:30, the lunch peak has passed. It empties out again. It is open until 15:00, so even a late lunch is in time.
120 seats, nice and spacious
Ichiwa's interior is incredibly spacious. It has 120 seats. There are table seats, tatami areas, and sunken kotatsu.
Spacious enough that even when a tour bus comes, everyone can sit. So you do not need to worry that much.
There are tatami areas too, so it is reassuring even with children. There are children's chairs and tableware too. A shop kind to families.
The ticket-machine system
Ichiwa is a system where you buy a meal ticket at a ticket machine. When you enter the shop, first to the ticket machine.
Look at the menu and buy a ticket for what you want to eat. Hand the ticket to a member of staff and take a seat. After that, just wait for your food to be brought over.
It is simple, so you will not be confused even on a first visit.
At night it transforms into the izakaya "Shimazake to Uminchu no Meshidokoro"
At night, Ichiwa becomes an izakaya. It runs under the name "Shimazake to Uminchu no Meshidokoro" (island sake and the fisherman's eatery).
The evening menu
At night, an izakaya menu centred on Irabu Island fish. Sashimi, grilled fish, simmered dishes, tempura. All using fresh fish.
Awamori from all of Miyakojima's distilleries is available too. You can do a tasting comparison of various brands.
At reasonable prices, you can drink and eat plenty. Locals come often too.
Otori experience set
There is also something called the otori experience set. ¥1,200 (about US$8).
Otori is a traditional way of drinking on Miyakojima. Everyone passes the same cup around and drinks it down in one. An essential culture of a Miyakojima banquet.
The otori experience set is a set of awamori and snacks. A menu aimed at tourists. You can experience Miyakojima culture.
Opening hours
The evening opening hours are 17:00–21:00 (last orders 20:00).
It ends earlier than the daytime. Last orders are at 20:00, so it is best to go early.
I once tried to go in the evening, but last orders had already passed and I could not get in. It was a shame. I decided to go early next time.
Sights around Ichiwa
Ichiwa is right in front of Sarahama Fishing Port. There are many sights nearby too.
Obanmai Shokudo (next door)
Next to Ichiwa is another famous diner called "Obanmai Shokudo". This one too is run by the port. Obanmai Shokudo is famous for gyokyo soba and island octopus bowl. You can enjoy fisherman fare different from Ichiwa. Going to both and comparing is good too. I went to both. Both were delicious.
Sarahama Fishing Port
Right in front of Ichiwa is Sarahama Fishing Port. Go early in the morning and you can see the fishing boats returning. The moment bonito and tuna are landed. There is vitality. You can feel the atmosphere of a fishing town on your skin. Tour the port and then eat at Ichiwa. The best flow.
Irabu Ohashi Bridge (5 min by car)
The Irabu Ohashi Bridge is a bridge 3,540 metres long connecting Miyakojima and Irabu Island. The longest toll-free bridge in Japan. The view of the sea seen from the bridge is spectacular. Emerald-green sea continues as far as the eye can see. On the way to Ichiwa, when crossing the bridge, enjoy the scenery. This too is the real charm of the trip.
Sawada-no-Hama (10 min by car)
Sawada-no-Hama is a beautiful beach chosen as one of Japan's Top 100 Beaches. Enormous boulders lie scattered around, a distinctive landscape. Eat lunch at Ichiwa, and spend the afternoon relaxing at Sawada-no-Hama. A perfect day.
Toguchi-no-Hama (15 min by car)
Toguchi-no-Hama is Irabu Island's most famous beach. A spectacular spot where white sand and clear sea spread out. Eat your fill at Ichiwa, and swim at Toguchi-no-Hama. The best way to spend the time.
The pros and cons of Ichiwa
Here is a summary of Ichiwa's good points and the points that gave me pause, felt from visiting many times.
Pros
1. The astonishing cheapness of a ¥900 tub-piled bowl
Because it is run by the port, this price. At other tourist spots this quantity costs over ¥2,000. The best value going.
2. Direct from the port, outstanding freshness
Fish just landed at Sarahama Fishing Port. There is no fresher fish anywhere else.
3. Four ways to eat it, so you do not tire of it
Bonito soy sauce, fisherman's sauce, namari spicy pickle, ara-jiru. Try them all and you can eat deliciously to the end.
4. Sarahama soba is exquisite
Bonito-everything soba. You can only eat it here. For bonito lovers, irresistible.
5. You can buy namari-bushi souvenirs
Namari spicy pickle, moist spicy bonito flakes. Ideal as souvenirs.
6. The interior is spacious with tatami areas too
It has 120 seats, nice and spacious. There are tatami areas too, so it is reassuring with children.
7. You can feel the atmosphere of a fishing town
A shop where locals come as a matter of course. Not commercialised for tourists, you can eat real fisherman fare.
Cons
1. Lunchtime is crowded
From noon to 13:00, tour buses sometimes come and it gets crowded. You need to be prepared to wait.
2. The closing days are irregular
You do not know when it is closed. It is best to check by phone before you go.
3. The evening hours end early
Last orders at 20:00. Go early or you cannot get in.
4. Payment is cash only
Credit cards and electronic money cannot be used. You need to have cash ready.
5. The location is a little hard to find
First-time visitors may find the port location hard to find. Google Maps essential.
6. The ticket-machine system is confusing
First-timers may be confused by operating the ticket machine. But you get used to it quickly.
7. The ara-jiru can be on the small side
Eating it with the ara-jiru poured over is the best, but the ara-jiru can be on the small side. I want more of it.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Q1: Where is Ichiwa?
Irabu Aza Ikemazoe 6-19, Miyakojima City, Okinawa. Right in front of Sarahama Fishing Port. Cross the Irabu Ohashi Bridge, turn right, follow the road for 5 minutes, and going down a steep slope it is visible on the left.
Q2: What are the opening hours?
Lunch: 11:00–15:00, evening: 17:00–21:00 (last orders 20:00). Closing days are irregular.
Q3: Are reservations needed?
Basically, no reservation needed. However, at busy times (noon to 13:00), you may have to wait. Going early is recommended.
Q4: What is the price of the tub-piled bowl?
The Tuna and Bonito Tub-Piled Bowl is ¥900 regular, ¥1,300 large. The Seafood-Loaded Tub-Piled Bowl is ¥1,500 (large size).
Q5: What are the four ways to eat it?
(1) Pour Irabu Island bonito soy sauce, (2) pour fisherman's sauce, (3) eat with namari spicy pickle, (4) pour ara-jiru. I want you to try them all.
Q6: What are the payment methods?
Cash only. Credit cards and electronic money cannot be used.
Q7: Is there parking?
Yes. There is space for 3 cars in front of the shop, and if full, you can use the port's communal car park.
Q8: Is it okay with children?
It is fine. There are tatami areas, and children's chairs and tableware too. A shop kind to families.
Q9: Can you buy namari-bushi?
Yes. In the shop, namari spicy pickle, moist spicy bonito flakes and so on are sold. Ideal as souvenirs.
Q10: Do you need a reservation for the evening izakaya?
In the evening, it may be best to reserve. Last orders are early at 20:00, so going early is recommended.
The taste of a fishing town for 900 yen
Uoichiba Ichiwa is a shop I really want you to stop by if you go to Irabu Island. There is no other place where ¥900 gives you this much satisfaction.
The shock of eating the tub-piled bowl for the first time I still cannot forget. Sashimi heaped so it spills out of the tub. Glittering tuna and bonito. One bite and I was surprised, "This for ¥900?"
Fish just landed at Sarahama Fishing Port. From the port right in front to the diner, a 30-second walk. You cannot eat fresher fish anywhere else.
The four ways to eat it are fun too. Bonito soy sauce, fisherman's sauce, namari spicy pickle, ara-jiru. Try them all and find your own favourite way to eat it. My favourite is eating it with the ara-jiru poured over at the end.
Sarahama soba is exquisite too. Bonito-everything soba. A flavour you can only eat here. The bonito stock comes through, with a deep flavour.
The fishing-town atmosphere is good too. A shop where locals come as a matter of course. Not commercialised, real fisherman fare. Such a place is precious.
Irabu Island has a beautiful sea, white sand, and a beautiful sunset. But Ichiwa's tub-piled bowl becomes a memory just as important as those.
Mid-trip, eat the tub-piled bowl at Ichiwa. Taste fresh fish while gazing at the port. And think, "I want to come again."
If you have plans to go to Irabu Island, do try stopping by Ichiwa. Go just after the 11:00 opening and it is empty. Order the tub-piled bowl and try all four ways to eat it.
I too, the next time I go to Irabu Island, will go to Ichiwa again. This time I want to try the evening izakaya too. I want to order the otori experience set and enjoy fisherman fare while drinking awamori.
Ichiwa is that kind of place. No matter how many times you go, you do not tire of it. There are new discoveries. And always, you go home satisfied, thinking "that was delicious".
Irabu Island's blue sea, white sand, beautiful sunset. And Ichiwa's tub-piled bowl. When all of these come together, it makes the best trip. I hope you too will experience such a trip.
